Chockstone - Climbing Tech Tips

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Tech Tips

Welcome to the Tech Tips section of Chockstone. Here you'll find a few ideas documented from various climbing mentors and other resources that might get you out of trouble. However, please don't trust your life to something you read on the internet. Get a good book, qualified instruction, or at least test things on or close to the ground first. No claim is made as to the accuracy or suitability of the tech tips. (Please read the full disclaimer).

Tech Tips

Techniques
Knots

Techniques
Carabiner Brake Rappel - How to abseil when you've dropped your descending device.
Backing Up An Abseil - A few of the many methods to backup a rappel.
Passing A Knot On Abseil - One method of rapping past a knot.
Ascending A Rope - Need to ascend the rope? Try using two prusiks.
Hauling The Second - How to hoist your second past the crux.
Equalising Anchors - How far can you afford to spread 'em?
Cordelette 101 - Equalising anchors the fast way!
Self Unclipping Quickdraw - How not to clip a quickdraw.
Stick Clipping - How to cheat past a bolt.
Improvising A Chest Harness - Staying upright on the rope.
Reaching High Nut Placements - A quick tip to placing a nut just out of reach.
Racking Accessory Cord - One method of racking your prusik loops.
Racking Cordelette - One method of racking your cordelette.
Making Tape Gloves - Crack climbers armour.
Building A Home Climbing Gym - The infamous backyard or basement "Woodie".
Stupid Mistakes To Avoid - When leading, belaying and abseiling.

Member's Contributions:
Solo Aiding a Beginners Intro -

Link to forum post by Michael Woods.
The Mental Toughness Error - (Nov 2008) Training Advice from Arno Ilgner.
Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous - (July 2008) Training Advice from Arno Ilgner.
Avoiding The Pump - Lactic Acid Info from Jacqui Middleton.
Tape and Other Catastrophes- Taping fingers to avoid further injury? From Dr Julian Saunders.
Leading Overhangs - Climbing roofs, overhangs and bulges. From Phil Box.
Leading On One Rope Or Two? - From Robin, Owen and others.
Introduction To Leader Rescue - Ideas on belayer rescuing leader. From Phil Box.
Aiding Out Of Trouble - How to aid past the crux of a free climb. From Phil Box.
A Comfortable Hanging Belay - Rope management, belay pods, etc. From Phil Box.
Jug Hauling - Ascending a rope with a Jumar and GriGri. From Phil Box.
Tyrolean Traverse - How to span a chasm and retrieve gear. From Phil Box.
Replacing Bolts - Bad bolts, replacements tips, etc. From Neil Monteith.
Sandstone Bolting - Strength & reliability of chemically bonded rock climbing anchors in sandstone. From Stephen Hawkshaw.
Soft Rock Bolting Guide - By Mike Law (PDF).

Protecting An Abseil - A Study Of Friction Knots by Dr Ron Farmer.

Knots
Figure Eight Follow Through - The classic "tie in" knot.
Figure Eight On A Bight - Useful for backing up, belay set ups, etc.
In-line Figure Eight - Can be used to anchor the rope.
Double Figure Eight - Bunny Ears. Used to equalise two anchors.
Rethreaded Figure Eight - Used for joining two ropes.
Double Fisherman's - Used for joining two ropes, or making a loop of cord.
Overhand Knot - Used for joining two ropes. Least likely to get stuck.
Double Bowline - Alternative "tie in" knot, easier to untie, but with disadvantages too.
Prusik Knot - Friction knot, can be used to ascend a rope, backup an abseil, etc.
Klemheist & Autoblock - Friction knots similar to the Prusik, but movable under load.
Bachman - Friction knot that incorporates a carabiner "handle".
Clove Hitch - A useful knot for belay set ups. Easy to adjust.
Munter Hitch - A knot that can be used to belay and abseil (rappel).
Slip Knot - Useful for slinging horns and chickenheads.
Mariner's Knot - Useful for transferring a load. Releasable under load.
Garda Hitch - Knot that allows the rope to move in one direction only.
Stopper Knot - Handy as a backup, and more.
Girth Hitch - Also known as a Lark's Foot.
Alpine Butterfly - A useful in-line knot.
No Knot - For tying off a tree.

Please contact Chockstone if you believe there is a mistake in any of the Tech Tips above, or you have a suggestion for inclusion in this section. I have taken all possible care in the preparation of the Tech Tips, but take no responsibility for anything that happens to you. Use your own judgement.

Chockstone Quote

"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous." - Reinhold Messner

Further Reading:
Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, Self Rescue - Recommended books.
Advanced Topics - On Dawn's climbing FAQ.
Climbing Articles - From Time Outdoors web site.
Climbing Magazine's Tech Tips - The US Mag. Every issue usually contains climbing tips.
Archive of Rock Climbing Moves & Tips - Details of actual body movements. Good for beginners.
Trad Tips - Compilation of trad climbing tips on an old rec.climbing message.
A Guide To Self Belay - From The Rock Zone in the UK.

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