Avoiding The Infamous Self Unclipping Quickdraw

Sport and Trad climbers alike should be well aware of the need to avoid back clipping quickdraws. Just in case you've forgotten, here's a quick reminder. The basic concept is to try and keep the rope running along the spine of the carabiner (correct clip shown right) when moving left or right of the placement, so that during a fall the rope will not be in danger of landing across the gate. This becomes more of an issue with bent gate carabiners and climbs that wander around rather than being straight up. The incorrect clip is shown below:

Figure 1: Note, the climber's direction of travel. He is moving upwards, but angling from the right of the draw to the left of it. Figure 2: A fall flips the rope over the gate of the carabiner. Figure 3: Self unclip!

Another means of avoiding the self unclip would be to rotate the carabiner through which the rope passes, such that the gate opening instead resides at the top. Also the usual cautions regarding carabiners should be mentioned, such as avoiding placements where protruding rock features threaten to open the gate, and avoiding loading the carabiner over an edge.

Above Left: Do not load carabiner over an edge. Above Right: Avoid protruding rock features that might open the gate.

Further Reading:
Self Unclipping Bolt Hangers - From Karl Lew's web site.

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