Rock Climbing In Victoria, Australia.
In association with Chockstone Photography
Welcome to Chockstone fellow climbers.
Within this site you'll find our on-line guide provides supplemental
information about most Victorian climbing destinations including the major
areas of Arapiles, the Grampians
and Mt Buffalo.
is chock full of images & video from all over the state and our
interviews with local climbers has been a welcome addition to the articles
section. A few pearls of climbing wisdom can be
found in the tech tips, along with detailed
photos of useful knots.
Stew Donn sussing out the next sandy sloper on Little Desert, 14, Bundaleer. Photographer: Steve Toal
|21/09/2017-7:30pm||VCC Annual General Meeting and Dinner|
Location: Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) Building,
Leader: Philipp Hammes
Details: Where and When:
Dinner from 6:00pm at the Hotel Spencer Bar and Grill.
475 Spencer St, Melbourne.
Annual General Meeting: Starting at 7:30pm at the Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) Building.
382 Spencer Street, West Melbourne.
What: The usual AGM Reports, Voting for the new Committee, Speeches and the fun parts:
The Golden Hex & Corroded Cam Awards for Climbing Photography
Each year, all those present at the AGM vote in the VCC's annual climbing photography competition, The Golden Hex and Corroded Cam Awards, awarding titles for first place (The Golden Hex) and runner up (The Corroded Cam).
Entry in the competition is open to all club members, and any climbing-related photos taken since the previous AGM (15/09/2016), whether taken on a club trip or other trip, will be accepted for entry. Each entrant may submit a maximum of six photos in the competition, so be sure to select your very best.
Entries may be submitted at any time up to the day before the AGM (20/09/2017) by emailing photo attachments or links to Philipp Hammes - firstname.lastname@example.org
Alternatively, you can bring your photos to the AGM on a USB drive.
The Trip Leaders Rewards Raffle
This year we're also going into another round of the BIG Raffle for the Trip Leaders Rewards Program.
Basically there are a bunch of amazing prizes our generous supporters provided and this is just a little thank you to all the effort our trip leaders have put in over the past year. Cheers to you legends!
Here are the rules for the VCC Trip Leaders Raffle:
1. There will be a raffle of all eligible trip leaders at each VCC AGM. To qualify they need to lead one or more trips (day or overnight) since the previous AGM.
2. Leading more trips means the trip leaders name goes in the raffle more times. One raffle ticket entry per day of climbing organised, up to a maximum of four days per trip.
3. Up to two Trip Leaders can receive credit in the raffle as trip leaders for the same trip.
4. If more than one prize, then draw the raffle for the prizes in order from the most valuable first.
5. Order of prizes draw to be determined prior to the AGM by the Committee.
6. Each Trip Leader can only win one prize.
7. A Trip Leaders next 12 months of VCC membership will be one prize.
This year Bogong Equipment has again donated the major prize in the raffle:
- Grivel Symetrical Oval TWIN gate carabiner $26
- Grivel k6G HMS TWIN gate carabiner $28
- Sterling Chain Reactor $50
- DMM Phantom Pack of 5 multi coloured carabiners $90
Total Value $194
This major prize, and the other prizes, will be sought after by all of our Trip Leaders.
We look forward to seeing you and your photos at the AGM.
Photo: Current President Ben Wright enjoying cooler temperatures on rock. [ More ]
Location: Victorian High Country
Leader: Philipp Hammes
Details: Join Matt and Philipp in this endeavour to find the little pockets of mountaineering adventures in Australia. We'll try to tackle some steep snow and ice in the beautiful Victorian backcountry.
Since this trip will be at the tail-end of winter, the conditions are pretty much unpredictable at the moment. Snow can vary between the whopping 135cm of 2004 or the sad 0cm of 2013.
There are a few locations where we might end up:
Bogong South Face
The Bluff North Face
Mt Buller West Ridge
Mt Feathertop Avalanche Ridge.
The general schedule will be the same regardless of the location:
Camping at the base of the mountain on Friday night.
Walk, climb and play on Saturday.
Establish camp on Saturday night.
More playtime and return to Melbourne on Sunday.
This trip is only suitable for advanced climbers. This means you own anice-axe or preferably ice-tools, some crampons and a climbing helmet and know how to use them. On top of that you have to be known to the trip leaders and have adequate skill and fitness levels. This is a Club requirement. We kindly ask everyone who signs up to commit 100% since places are very limited.
Trip Leaders: Matt Scattergood and Philipp Hammes
Please contact Philipp to secure your place on this backcountry adventure.
Note: The trip will still go ahead if there're bone dry conditions, but obviously we'll leave the sharps at home. [ More ]
|27/09/2017-7:00p||:30pm - VCC Club Nights @ Gravity Worx (September)|
Location: Gravity Worx Indoor Climbing Gym
Leader: Mark Rippingale
Details: The VCC are holding regular Club Nights at Gravity Worx Indoor Climbing Gym. Initially these will be held fortnightly on the second and fourth Wednesday of each month. For SEPT, the nights will be Wed 13th and 27th September.
These Club Nights will be relaxed and informal. The idea is that you can come along without a climbing partner and join in with other VCC members. It gives you the opportunity to meet other VCC members and find regular climbing partners. Or you could climb without a partner using one of the 16 auto-belays available. Perfect for those wanting to do some endurance training. Continuous climbing on these tall walls will certainly do the trick.
Mark Rippingale will be the official 'Trip Leader' on these Wednesday Nights. So find Mark when you arrive and have signed in. There is no need to contact Mark prior to these nights - just turn up ready to climb.
For these VCC Nights, the cost of entry for VCC members is $15, plus gear if needed. This is a heavily discounted entry for VCC members.
Beginners are most welcome.
Trip Leader Mark Rippingale
Michael O'Reilly using some fancy footwork on the Green 25.
Gravity Worx Climbing Gym:
Phone:03 9350 1789
http://www.gravityworx.com.au/ [ More ]
|Moonarie - Flinders Ranges|
Location: Moonarie, Flinders Ranges, South Australia
Leader: Dave Scarlett
Details: Moonarie, situated in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park of South Australia, is one of Australia's premier climbing destinations, offering brilliant single and multi-pitch trad climbing in a spectacular and remote desert setting.
Photo: Wilpena Pound
The climbing is mostly in the intermediate to hard range, on excellent quality, Arapiles-like rock, with classics starting around grade 15. Aside from the fantastic climbing, the Wilpena Pound area, of which Moonarie makes up a small corner, also offers superb hiking and sightseeing for your rest days.
Photo: Outside Chance (16)
This trip is suitable for advanced and reasonably experienced intermediate climbers only.
The trip will run for 10 days, including the Grand Final public holiday, and Moonarie's location makes it possible to break up the long drive with an optional stopover at Arapiles along the way.
Photo: Hanging out at the belay anchors.
Photo: Hywel and Liz on Downwind of Angels (19)
For more information, or to register your interest, contact the trip leader David Scarlett.
All Photos: VCC Smugmug Gallery from previous Club Trips.
[ More ]
|End of Month @ Arapiles (Sept) CANCELLED|
Location: Pines - Arapiles
Leader: Hywel Rowlands
The September EOM@Araps trip has been CANCELLED. You can blame one or all of the following: Hywel's slow house renovations in Britain, the AFL Grand Final or the VCC Club Trip to Moonarie. Either way we don't have an available trip leader for this trip to go ahead unfortunately.
With winter in or memories, it's time to warm things up for summer.Join us for another end of month instalment at Arapiles.
Hywel Rowlands will be back from climbing in Britain to run this trip and I'm sure he will be delighted to touch the rock at Arapiles after quite some time.
Please feel free to email Hywel for the trip details. [ More ]
Adam Ondra climbs World's first 9c?
Information from UKClimbing.com
NEWSFLASH: Adam Ondra climbs World's first 9c? - Project Hard
An excerpt -
The three existing 9b+'s in the world, Change , La Dura dura and Vasil, vasil, were all put up by Adam, and only one, La Dura Dura, has been repeated
... [ More ]
|New On Chockstone
||[ More ]
Jacqui has put together a PDF
guide to the new
in Melbourne. This is a free outdoor bouldering wall
built by climbers for climbers.
Paul Martin has contributed a guide to the Beechworth Bouldering Circuit.
From a climbers perspective, the Beechworth area is worth spending some time in as it is blessed with a large number of granite boulders upon which we may ply our trade.
The bouldering in this guide covers only a small but popular area which lies within close proximity to the town centre.
Dr Ron Farmer has contributed an article Protecting An Abseil: A Study Of Friction Knots. The aim of this study was to examine the suitability of various knots for protecting an abseil with a self-belay.
At long last the Chockstone T-Shirts are finally happening! Belinda Rees of Makalu Mountain Equipment has kindly taken on the daunting task and financial cost of producing and selling them. Please support her efforts by placing an order via the fax details shown below. If you want to pick up a shirt before Christmas, you'll need to get your order in pronto.
Neil has created a guide to Grahams Creek, Victoria Range, Grampians and well as another to Windjammer Wall, Mt Stapylton, Grampians. Both are also available in PDF.
WIN THIS BOOK! To celebrate the launch of Simon Carter's fabulous new photo book - World Climbing, Chockstone is hosting a competition - the prizes being signed copies of the book!
Check out this topic on the forum for details on how to win.
has added a guide to a new crag in the Northern Grampians,
at Hollow Mountain:
Bad Moon Rising Wall. The routes and rock quality
resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right
side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has
some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians.
James has updated the Mt Difficult, Grampians guide as a revised PDF. Also reviewed Slack Jaw DVD's Blood Sweat and Bagels, and Stick It, both of which I really enjoyed.
Added video of Jacqui Middleton leading The Invisible Fist of Professor Hiddich Smiddich (26) at the jewel of the Grampians, Taipan Wall. The scary traverse out right and back left to tag the finish is well above the last bolt. Video shot from two angles, including above and behind via an overhanging abseil.
Neil has updated his Mt Stapylton Campground guide. Grab the
PDF for the latest version. Includes 40 climbs within walking distance of the campsite. Areas: Mini Castle Crag, Warden Wall, Sentinel Cave & Wall, The Guardhouse, and Mt Pleasant.
Completed the Interview with Simon Mentz.
Local reader's will probably best know Simon's name as the co-author of those outstanding guide books Arapiles Selected Climbs, and Grampians Selected Climbs.
Other's might have come across his name against numerous starred first ascents that are now considered classics in the Grampians, Mt Buffalo and deep in the heart of the Northern Territory.
Simon's climbing life has taken him to more distance places like The Nose of El Capitan and the Matterhorn, but his nucleus remains the appealing country life of Natimuk.
Completed the Interview with Dave Jones.
The man with a quiet voice and supernatural shoulders has a reputation for bold, run out, trad horror shows, including one such ascent captured on film during the making of the well known climbing movie "Hard Grit". With first ascents that include the hardest route at Mt Arapiles, Punks Addition (32), some scary stuff on Taipan Wall and a wealth of bold FA's and repeats throughout the world, it's a wonder Dave has time to earn a living.
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