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Climbing News [ Earlier News Items | Add ]
12-Mar-2019 New Moonarie Guidebook
Rob Baker and Josef Goding are stoked to announce the 2019 edition of the Moonarie - a rock climber's guide. See:
13-Jan-2018 Logan Barber does Aussie new hardest trad crack.
Australian climber Logan Barber has established ... [ More ]
26-Oct-2017 New Nose record 2:19:44 ... [ More ]

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to 01/03/2020
End of the Month @ Araps/Djurite - February
Location: Mount Arapiles
Leader: Janet Cunningham
Details: Mt Arapiles at the end of summer? Arapiles in late February can provide some excellent climbing. Enjoy the cooler and shady gullies or the routes on the left side of Central Gully. Get up early and enjoy the sun's rays on the nearby classicsand well-worn trade routes in the Organ Pipes. Maybe explore some new areas. All those famous walls and prominent buttresses of Arapiles have shady gullies nearby! These gullies sometimes have cool breezes emanating from the 'bowels of Araps'. But it's also the beginning of Autumn - peak climbing season. Maybe we'll get lucky and have some early autumn weather. Either way, Arapiles will be a great place to be this weekend.   These EOM@Araps/Djurite trips are intended for all levels of climbers, however Beginner spaces may be limited by the number of experienced leaders who come along. It is recommended that Beginners contact the Trip Leader as soon as possible to secure their place. All intending participants must contact the trip leader prior to the trip. Please send through some details about your experience and climbing gear and hopefully we'll see you there.     [ More ]
to 15/03/2020
Eastern Wall, Gariwerd/Grampians
Location: Eastern Wall, Central Grampians
Leader: Rhys Boyar
Details: The Central Grampians has plenty to offer climbers at this time of the year. We will be climbing both days at Eastern Wall, a substantial north-facing cliff that has a number of routes at more accessible grades, as well as some harder climbs. Eastern Wall is the large cliff visible from the top of Bundaleer. The photo of the Nindja Area only shows part of the left hand end of the cliff! Eastern Wall was banned to climbing in 2008, due to the re-establishment of the Brush-tailed Rock Wallaby population in a trial rehabilitation experiment. PV reopened the area to climbing in late 2015 after closing the trial there and the remaining wallabies were relocated. Eastern Wall is outside of the SPA areas too. It's time to return. A visit to Eastern Wall feels like real adventure climbing. The steep 25 mins walk up the hill after the slow drive down Rosea Track makes you feel quite remote. While there are some abseil anchors at the top of the cliff, this cliff basically is a trad cliff. It provides some great multi-pitch trad climbing, particularly in the easier grades. The routes are often steep, exposed, airy and unlikely at the grade.   If you are interested in joining the VCC on this trip, please contact the Trip Leader, Rhys Boyar, to secure your place. The total number of participants on this trip will be limited. The number of beginners will also be limited, depending on the number of experienced leaders who come along. All intending participants must contact Rhys prior to the trip. [ More ]
21/03/2020Lianyuk/Mt Alexander Day Trip - Dog Rocks
Location: Dog Rocks, Mt Alexander
Leader: Leigh Hopkinson
Details: Autumn is a great time to get on the granite of Mt Alexander! Situated near Castlemaine, Mt Alex is a 75-minute drive up the Calder if youre coming from Melbourne. Well be going to Dog Rocks for the day, where access is just a couple of hundred metres from the car park. Mt Alex is known for its slab and crack climbing, so this trip is a good opportunity to try these styles if youre new to them, or perfect your technique if youre a seasoned climber (Braveheart, anyone?) Theres a wide range of predominantly shorter climbs beginning at around grade 7 (trad) all the way up to the mid 20s. Theres also some excellent bolted artes if youre keen to mix it up. Beginners are welcome; trip leaders Leigh Hopkinson and Nic Low are happy to put up a few top ropes so you can try slab and crack climbing with confidence. Dog Rocks is Leigh and Nics local crag, so theyll be able to suggest some options on the day, depending on what youre up for. Top ropes are a great way to explore jam cracks and off-widths while you're learning the technique. Throw in your bathers and if its a hot day, well finish off with a cleansing dip at the local swimming hole (the Res) and fish n chips and a beer at sunset. It is essential to contact Leigh prior to the trip to secure your place and get more information.   Photos: Trip Leaders Leigh Hopkinson and Nic Low; and Neil Monteith leading Braveheart (18) [Courtesy of] [ More ]
30/03/2020-5:3:00pm - Bluestone Bouldering #2
Location: Heidleberg Rd - Merri Creek Bridge, Clifton Hill
Leader: Michael O'Reilly
Details: Return to Bluestone Bouldering. Let's see how much we've improved. And a chance for others to join in. Bouldering on Melbourne's walls and bridges used to be the go-to training for rock climbers thirty years ago. Before climbing gyms, there was no other option. This evening trip is designed to give the modern pampered climber an introduction to the fine art of bluestone bouldering. You can train endurance, power endurance, technique and footwork on this wall. The Heidelberg Road/Merri Creek Wall is, in my opinion, the most versatile of the bluestone walls close to inner Melbourne. And it's an 'all weather' venue. Location: The wall is on the Capital City Bike Path following the Merri Creek where it crosses under the historic Heidelberg Road bridge. The wall is on the western (Clifton Hill) side of the Merri Creek. If you're driving, park on The Esplanade in Clifton Hill just near the playground next to Heidelberg Road. Just walk down hill to the bike path and descend steeply to the wall. It's about a 10 minute walk from Clifton Hill Station if you're taking the train. Of course it's on the bike path if you're riding. Time: 5:30 - 7:00pm Drop in during this time frame, try the wall out and get pumped! When: Monday 30th March This bouldering session is suitable for all levels of experience and ability. The righthand end of the wall has bigger holds and I spent a long time training on this wall before I could complete a whole lap without stepping off! Advanced climbers can challenge themselves on one of my 'elimination laps'. I've got a couple of laps that are around grade 24. Michael will be available to coach interested climbers in the techniques needed to climb bluestone! While most of the holds are crimps, there's also slopers and even a couple of hand jams. You'll certainly learn to vary your crimp and body position to avoid the pump. What to bring: Just your climbing shoes and a chalk bag are needed. You don't get off the ground so no need for mats/helmets.   Please let Michael know via the email link below if you're intending to come along.       [ More ]
to 05/04/2020
Learn2Lead Course - April 2020
Location: Djurite/Mt Arapiles
Leader: Michael O'Reilly
Details: One vacancy is remaining for this L2L Course. Contact Michael as soon as possible if you're interested. The next VCC Learn2Lead Course has been organised to run at Mt Arapiles/Djurite from Tuesday 31st March - Sunday 5th April. There are only FOUR places on this course. These course dates overlap with the first week of the Victorian School Holidays. The VCC offers this course exclusively to members. Take the next step. Learn to lead climb using natural protection, have fun and get home safely: Exclusive to VCC members 6 days qualified instruction All equipment, including trad gear, provided Only 4 participants are on the course.     What you will learn: Lead climbing using natural protection Setting up belay stations and descending from the cliff Multi-pitch considerations Protecting the second. Note: More details about what you will learn are listed below. Course pre-requisites: You should be able to safely belay and second a lead climber outdoors You must be a currentVCC member. Total cost: $880 per person, including GST. Note: Parks Victoria Camping Fees at Mt Arapiles, Food and Transport are not included in this price. The course is organised by the VCC, and is run over 6 consecutive days by a qualified private provider. Trad climbing gear is provided for participants without their own rack. Contact Michael OReilly, the VCC Trip Co-ordinator, as soon as possible to secure your place. (Email link at the end of this post.) There are only 4 places available on any Learn2Lead Course. Your place on the course will only be confirmed upon payment of a non-refundable and non-transferrable $280 deposit. The balance of the payment needs to be made as soon as 4 participants are confirmed. Michael can also answer any questions that you may have about the course. The following skills are explicitly covered during the course: Different equipment types, anchor types, care and basic usage (ropes, protection, bolts, pitons etc). How to place (and clean) natural protection How to appropriately and safely space the protection while leading How to avoid the zipper affect when leading How to choose the length of draw or sling to use each piece of gear How to protect the lead climber when climbing above a ledge How to protect the second (eg traverses) Setting up anchors Equalising anchors, using both cordelette or the climbing rope(s) Setting up multidirectional belay anchors on multi-pitch climbs Threading fixed anchors and abseiling after climbing Setting up top-ropes Safe descent from routes.   [ More ]

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