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 | Equalising Anchors
 (Chockstone does not take any responsibility for the
      accuracy of this article, or it's suitability for the purpose. Use at your
      own risk. Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography
 
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      Equalising anchors correctly reduces the potential load on each anchor by
      distributing the weight. This is a very useful tool, making two equalised
      anchors far superior too two anchors set in series. Two anchors that by
      themselves may not hold much of a fall, when combined correctly may well
      be stronger. However, when equalising anchors you should NOT
      spread them too far apart or the concept of equalisation will actually
      work against you rather than for you. The diagram below shows that the
      reliability of the anchors decreases the wider they are spread
      apart.  Below: An 80kg load clipped to two equalised
      anchors. (Source AMGA 1992 manual).
       
        
          | 40kgs | 40kgs | 43.2kgs | 43.2kgs | 56kgs | 56kgs | 80kgs | 80kgs |  
          |   |   |  |   |  
          | 50% Load on each anchor | 54% load on each anchor | 70% load on each anchor | 100% load on each anchor |  With the anchors set 160 degrees apart the load on
      each anchor jumps to 290% meaning that in the above example of an 80kg
      load, each anchor is actually taking a huge 232kgs! Also with widely spread
      anchors, slung in the fashion shown above, you are loading the carabiner poorly.
      I believe the term is tri-axle loading. As a general rule, try
      not to spread your anchors wider than 90 degrees.  Equalising Two Anchors With The Rope
 When leading, and equalising
      anchors at a belay I recommend using a cordelette. If you do use the rope, consider such knots as the In-line
      Figure Eight, which can be easily elongated to balance the load. Or
      check out the Bunny Ears. For top roping I
      suggest a 25m length of static rope (say 11mm), rather than a cordelette,
      because it will be more durable in the long term. Right: Two anchors equalised with the rope.
      The first anchor is tied off with a figure
      eight on a bite, while the second anchor is clipped to an In-line
      Figure Eight, whose protruding loop has been easily adjusted to
      equalise tension of the load between both anchors. Equalising Two Anchors With A Sling
 
        
          |  | 
  Step
            1: Clip the anchors with a large sling. You could clip a carabiner
            to your load, through
            both strands of this set up, but what would happen if one anchor
            failed? The result would be total failure. Also Note: Avoid using the "Death
            Triangle" pictured right. Rather than distributing the load
            this actually puts a greater force on the system due to the same
            "wide spread" principle as explained above. |  
          |   | Step 2: Far better to put a twist in one strand. Step 3:
            And clip the load to both strands as shown. You can move the
            carabiner horizontally at will to adjust it to the best postion.
 This way should one anchor fail the system
            would still be in contact with the other anchor. However it would
            extend a great deal, badly shock loading the remaining anchor. And what if
            the sling itself tore? The whole system would fail. Called
            the "Sliding X", this is set up is not recommended in most
            situations, instead, continue to step four below. |  
          |  | Step 4: One way to solve the problem is to instead put an overhand knot
            in the sling strands, and clip this to the load as shown.
 This way if one anchor fails, or the sling
            tears above the knot, then the second anchor will be loaded with
            little or no extension. This is not the only way to equalise two
            anchors with a sling.  |    
 Further Reading:Anchor
      Principles -  From the university of Oregon web site.
 Should
      I Use The Sliding X - From Dawn's Trad Girl FAQ.
 
      
 
      
      
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