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We found Rosea campground oddly uncrowded and quickly set up camp to stake our claim. Within minutes of arrival we were trudging up the approach hike to Rosea's impressive cliffs. Debutante, the 117m grade 15 was to be our objective for the day. After a bit of debate as to the starting point, Kent racked up and launched up the first pitch. A somewhat unexpectedly wild traverse to a double bolt belay added spice to the first lead of the trip. With all three of us settled on the small ledge I racked for the next lead, a nice corner crack, which proved challenging for the grade but containing great rest stances from which to place gear. The belay a top a detached pinnacle offered an airy seat on which the others soon joined me. A quick doddle up a short pitch brought us to the base of another corner crack. This time Ben took the sharp end, finding himself on the crux of the route. Committing moves for the grade lead up to an exposed right traverse. Well done Ben! I polished off the last easy pitch and we all assembled on the summit for the walk off, getting back down to camp with just enough light to cook by. Above Right: Kent leading the first pitch of Debutante 117m grade 15. Above Left: Ben seconding the last pitch. Below Right: Ben seconding the last pitch of Heretic, 117m grade 17.
Left: Me leading Blimp, grade 20. Below Right: Jacqui leading Angular Perspective 35m grade 27/28. (See: Bundaleer images page for more pics and video footage. See also: An interview with Jacqui).
Check the video clips All that sitting around watching people climb hard
made us tired, so we filled in the afternoon ambling our lethargic bodies
up Scarab, the three pitch grade 12. Ben lead the crux first pitch,
quietly running out the exposed chimney. I got a small fright leading us
across the easy hand traverse on the second pitch when a large jug I'd
placed gear behind wiggled loosely. Climbing under the massive double
prongs that mark the third pitch was fun, and felt oddly like we were
breaking into a house. As we left the crag we heard from another party climbing (pictured right) on a nearby grade 17 we'd done once before. We had seen them earlier in the day and warned them the route was hard for the grade with the crux corner crack being very stiff leading up to a single piton and really requiring big cams. One of the members had taken a fall onto his smallest wire and hit a ledge, injuring his foot. They'd been forced to rap off, and abandon climbing for the day.
Left: Ben bouldering the awesomely fun traverse at the base Taipan Wall. A varied and continuously exciting traverse for several metres is possible, along with many challenging upwards problems. A boulderers heaven! With the rain gone, but our tendons strained, we called it a day mid-afternoon and managed the long drive home well before dark. All up a great trip, with several memorable moments, such as Kent getting his entire lunch stolen by creatures at Bundaleer. (Hehe). Good food, good company, great climbing - what more can you ask for! The update on "Angular Perspective" project, if
it is of interest to you ... well we headed back to it on the weekend. I've now
got the first section leading up to the dyno wired perfectly. Nice and smooth. I
have all the other moves sorted out... have almost done the dyno... but no prize
yet! Rohan on the other hand, powered his way through it, ticking the 27 version
yesterday (it's 27 to the first set of chains.... 28 if you continue to the
top). Quite an impressive feat for someone that's had a couple of years rest
from climbing, and has been back only a couple of months! We then all treated
ourselves to gelati in Halls Gap :)
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