Mt Rosea resides not far south of Halls Gap a fairly easy walk from the Rosea Camping Ground on Silverband road. (See: Approach Map). The cliff is tall, with some lines toping out over 150m, though the average line is more like 100m. The climbing is multi-pitch adventure style, with some awesome routes to inspire many a trad leader. You don't have to be a hardcore leader to head on up. There are plenty of intermediate three starred climbs such as "Mixed Climb" 120m which goes at grade 12, "Debutante" 117m grade 15, and "Herectic" 117m grade 17. A couple of routes that seem to attract a lot of climbers is "The Ascension" 117m grade 21, which shares the same impressive block and first pitch as "Fringe Dweller" 130m grade 21. When climbing on Rosea, take two ropes, a diverse trad rack and a big smile for that wild exposure!

Above Right: Main cliff at Mt Rosea as viewed from the summit. Below Left: Rosea Camping Ground.

The Mt Rosea camp site is the best place to stay the night. While its not massive, I'm guessing it could accommodate about 20 tents without being totally cramped. No running water though, so bring your own. Camp fees do apply, though on my last visit the ticket dispenser was out of order. Large fireplaces exist, but you might want to bring some wood. It's a bit of a damp sort of place sometimes, with the shadowy trees hiding the sun.

To access the cliff, walk out of Rosea camp ground, on the clearly labelled Mt Rosea walking track and look for a left turn (pictured right) that comes up pretty quickly and is guarded by a fallen branch or two, like someone has tried to hide the track. Take this left! Do not continue up the new tourist track or you'll be in for a two hour hike to the summit. Assuming you took the aforementioned left, you'll zigzag up and very shortly see glimpses of the cliff through the trees. When you hit the cliff base, an ascending track called the giant staircase leads left, steeply up to the summit, while another track heads right along the base. 

Above Right: The vital left turn on the approach track, about 1km out of Rosea camping ground. Someone has etched the word "crag" into a fallen log at this turn off, but in all likelihood you won't see it.

Take the right along the cliff base and after only, say, 20 metres you'll be standing below the impressive and protruding Tourist Buttress staring up at the start of "The Ascension" 117m grade 21 (pictured below). The first pitch, shared by Fringe Dweller also grade 21, contains a distinctive layback or jam crack after which a wild chimney is encountered. Check out the video clip (2.7 Meg, 44 seconds) of a Natimuk local (who's name I didn't grab), as he fights the crack, then takes on the bold chimney moves with his back to the rock, facing out into space!

Above: Natimuk local takes on the crux pitch one of The Ascension, grade 21 which shares the same layback or jam crack as Fringe Dweller on the massive protruding block. They went on to complete Fringe Dweller, 130m grade 21.

Above: Heretic 117m grade 17 starts 4m left of a large tree at the base (pictured above left). The route is quite an adventure and definitely recommended unless grade 17 happens to be your lead max. The first pitch goes at grade 15 and is easy enough except for a single crux overhang that threatens to tip you backwards for a couple of hard moves. The 2nd pitch (pictured above middle) is sustained grade 17 corner crack climbing. However with liberal use of stemming the feet lots of nice rest stances arise from which to place gear. The crux is the third pitch where-in a steep and pumpy corner crack/chimney is encountered. I'd say the moves here are actually harder than the grade. Quite a work out, especially with a day pack. The last two pitches are a romp. Graded at 17 and 16 respectively, they are actually a cruise compared the pitches below, with lots of bomber stances and huge jugs.

Above: Ben seconding the first and last pitch of Debutante, 117m grade 15. Debutante is generally considered one of the best routes at Mt Rosea. A real adventure! Beware the first pitch (pictured above left). It contains an unexpectedly wild little traverse to a double bolt belay. Give yourself heaps of daylight hours if you're bringing up a large party. Above Right: Mixed Climb, 120m grade 12.

One thing to note about climbing on Mt Rosea is that its not hard to get off route. There are so many climbs, lines that cross over each other, combination routes, and variants that route finding needs to be on your skills list. It pays to photocopy the guide book topo and take it up with you. Also of note is that the whole crag is in shade during the afternoons - very welcome during summer. Many of the bigger routes could well take you the best part of the whole day if you have a party of three. Have fun and good luck!

Below: The dominate arête of Tourist Buttress as seen from the Debutante route. Climbs like "The Ascension" and "Fringe Dweller" head up this buttress.

Climbs At Main Cliff, Mt Rosea:   

Items in green made it into the Mentz and Tempest "Grampians Selected Climbs" guide, so might be more promising prospects.

Further Reading:   
Grampians Selected Climbs - Guide book authored by Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest and available from local climbing shops or the VCC.
South Eastern Grampians - 1991 Guide book by Chris Baxter.
Mt Rosea - A few routes described on Will's Climbing site.

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