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Chockstone Forum - Safer Cliffs Australia
Talk Bolts and Re-Bolting
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IdratherbeclimbingM9
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Mt Buffalo (near enough) Victoria, Australia. |
I Climb: |
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Comments: |
Although I ticked Boulder, Toprope & Sport; I really only (occasionally) play on them as physical training for Adventure (Trad) Climbing or Aid, (prefer multipitch in both cases).
Roped-soloing (aid) Country Road at Mt Buffalo. [A larger version can be found in photo of the week archive here.].
(Photo: courtesy of A. Secomb.)
Roped-soloing (aid) M5 Sportclimb ~> the top pitch of Strange Ritual on the headwall of Ozymandias Direct/Lord Gumtree at Mt Buffalo.
... Equalised hooks on a dubious (can feel it but not see it), crimp to top-out !
Read about this climb here; (re photos below).
(Photos: courtesy of I. Kable.)
A link to yet another photo of the week from its archive ~ Lest We Forget (how to free climb? Hehheh9), can be found here. This climb is at The Rock (between Holbrook and Wagga Wagga NSW).
Official Chockstone statistics say that I am in the lowest percentage climbers group; (My preferred option of aid = 13% only*) I can live with that,.. since some would call me antisocial anyway?
(*13% and falling as more Members register on this site!)
"Climbing without risk is not really climbing" ~ Yvon Chouinard.
... and I would add that the day the mental component is taken out of climbing is the day that the adventure is greatly diminished.
~> I am exploring adventure ( & my mind?), through the medium of roped-solo-climbing (esp. hard aid), for extended duration periods...
~> M9* is something to aspire to.
(*Highest Australian Aid Grade at present = M10, on an open ended system.)
~ Good judgment comes from experience;
Experience comes from bad judgment, and/or lessons learnt from others. ~ That is why climbing is a game; ... of survival.
Enjoy the moments while you can.
"A first ascent is a creation. It is more artistic if it consciously rejects the use of certain climbing aids that are not essential to the success of the climb." ~ R.R.
"The wonderful thing about standards is that there are so many of them to choose from." - Grace Murray Hopper.
"It isnt what you have, or who you are, or where you are, or what you are doing that makes you happy or unhappy. It is what you think about". ~ D. Carnegie.
Record of my user name to make sense of historical posts; due Chockstone started 06/06/02; my 1st post was on 17/06/02 (lurked for 10 days); & events since have seen my user ID evolve ...
A5iswhereitsat
M8iswhereitsat
M9iswhereitsat
Idratherbeclimbing
IdratherbeclimbingM9 |
Statistics: |
11046 posts.
Started 168 new topics, 10878 replies. 38 Media Reviews
Generally takes 22.75 days to reply.
Last posted on 14-Oct-2024 at 1:28:49 PM
Last logged in 14-Oct-2024 at 1:33:43 PM
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Profile Topics: |
General Discussion
Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania
1-Mar-2016
Mt Arapiles Camp Ground Users Group
10-Sep-2015
The ultimate retro bolt?
3-Jun-2013
First in best dressed?
10-Apr-2013
THE OFFICIAL STOKED THREAD!
1-Dec-2009
The greatest sandbags in Victoria
7-Oct-2009
Abseil Technique
22-May-2009
Off-topic Climbers who ride version 2; MOTORcycles
20-Apr-2009
What's the scariest lead that you've ever done?
18-Apr-2009
Australian climbing festival 09?
3-Mar-2009
The Inaugural Post
30-Apr-2008
Ticked it
13-Feb-2008
If its A5 where are the bodies?
6-Feb-2008
Roped Soloing - Who Does It? (for OP)
5-Feb-2008
Climbing an Adrenaline sport?
20-Sep-2007
A short story
28-Aug-2007
Off-topic Climbers who ride version 2; MOTORcycles
2-May-2007
The greatest unfinished problems in Victoria
10-Feb-2007
Solo Aiding a beginners intro
3-Feb-2007
Soloing - A question of ethics?
17-Nov-2006
Off-topic: Climbers who ride MOTORbikes.
1-Feb-2006
(461 Replies)
The singularly most dangerous thing ...
25-Oct-2005
(55 Replies)
Havachatwithhexy...
11-Oct-2005
Havachatwithhexy...
7-Oct-2005
Grigri impact force on protection ....
18-Jul-2005
What to do when nature calls....
14-Jun-2005
A short story
12-Mar-2005
Country Road and bottles of wine
24-Jan-2005
Mind games, visualisation & being in the 'zone'.
17-Nov-2004
(48 Replies)
Topping out vs lowering off (climbs & ethics?)
19-Aug-2004
(59 Replies)
A short story
26-Jul-2004
A short story
25-Jun-2004
A short story
24-Jun-2004
lets talk about lost gear
1-Mar-2004
lets talk about lost gear
1-Mar-2004
THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM
5-Feb-2004
Trip Reports
Mt Buffalo 2016 Aid Festival w/end of 26-27 Nov.
18-Nov-2016
Buffalo Aidfest - 21 & 22 November 2015.
16-Dec-2015
Buffalo Aidfest - 21 & 22 November 2015.
16-Dec-2015
Buffalo Aidfest - 21 & 22 November 2015.
16-Dec-2015
ozzy last weekend of nov
17-Sep-2015
ozzy last weekend of nov
8-Sep-2015
Buffalo Aidfest November 2014.
22-Jan-2015
Buffalo Aidfest November 2013
3-Dec-2013
(23 Replies)
Buffalo Aid Weekend – report for 20-21 Nov 2010
15-Dec-2010
(28 Replies)
Mt Buffalo: Noblesse Oblige Oct 2010.
6-Oct-2010
(6 Replies)
ACT beta Trip Report, plus* (March 2010)...
30-Mar-2010
(18 Replies)
Buffalo Aid Weekend March 2010
23-Mar-2010
Buffalo Oysters ~ feasting on passion.
15-Jan-2008
(34 Replies)
Warrambungles
15-Jul-2006
Good & bad days happen. Morphed to what is sport?
15-Jun-2005
(16 Replies)
Adventure climbing - the completion of Scythe Slab
12-Nov-2004
(4 Replies)
Guidebook corrections - update section.
25-Oct-2004
(8 Replies)
Maharajah Tune
10-Mar-2004
(6 Replies)
Find Climbers
Climbing around Alice Springs
8-Apr-2014
3rd Buffalo Aid W/end 23-24 Nov '13
27-Jul-2013
(144 Replies)
Moving to Victoria High Country
6-Oct-2011
2nd Buffalo aidclimb w/e 20-21 Nov 2010
4-Sep-2010
2nd Buffalo learn aid-climbing w/e 20-21 Nov 2010
17-Aug-2010
(113 Replies)
Buffalo aidclimb w/end 20-21March2010(~> Newbies!)
4-Feb-2010
(91 Replies)
aid epidemic of one: calling A5iswhereitsat
25-Oct-2004
Climbing Videos
7-Sep-2012
Accidents & Injuries
AML & Climbing - a random info thread.
22-Aug-2022
(61 Replies)
Booroomba accident
20-Apr-2016
Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Cheating on Big Walls
6-Jul-2012
Self equalising anchor
29-Mar-2009
Chockstone Feedback
1000 members and counting
1-Aug-2011
For Sale
free- Boreal climbing shoes
18-Sep-2016
Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 tent for sale
6-Oct-2009
Safer Cliffs Australia
Buffalo Rebolting
17-Jan-2005
Crag & Route Beta
climbing near wagga wagga?
12-Nov-2015
rap station at top of eurobin falls?
16-Dec-2014
Mount Rosea Left Side - Route Location
1-May-2013
Rings on
16-Aug-2012
Iron Void - some beta please
8-Jul-2010
Balls Pyramid
26-Jun-2009
Buffalo - Angels substitute?
29-Aug-2007
Defender of the Faith
25-Jan-2005
holden caulfeild beta
14-Dec-2004
Intentions Book - statistics
27-Oct-2004
to A5 is where its at
20-Jun-2004
Ozymandias and water
19-Nov-2003
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Recent Topics: |
Crag & Route Beta
Glass floor lookout xtn- Cacaphonic / Thanksgiving
17-Jan-2023
(6 Replies)
Accidents & Injuries
AML & Climbing - a random info thread.
22-Aug-2022
(61 Replies)
General Discussion
2020 - the year that was - Awards
5-Jan-2021
(0 Replies)
Natimuk Climbing Museum.
14-Feb-2020
(8 Replies)
Gear Lust / Lost & Found
End of era: no more stuck cams - take 2.
4-Feb-2020
(9 Replies)
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