Staughton Vale
[ Climbs
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Quick Stats |
Climbs |
*** |
** |
* |
Hardest |
Longest |
Rock |
Access |
16 |
1 |
0 |
2 |
20 |
39m |
Granite |
5
Min |
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"Its
the worst crag near Melbourne. One route looks sort of worthwhile. It
similar to a road cutting". - Neil M.
Right: Main cliff at Staughton Vale.
Access is from Bacchus Marsh, if you're coming from
Melbourne. Find the little locality of Balling about 17km south, then head
for Staughton Vale. As you sweep around left you shortly come to the
"Staughton Vale Outdoor Education Centre". (See approach road
map). Take the gravel road
on the right for 1.4kms. Park on the left and walk south along a track for
about 5 minutes to the top of the cliff.
"The First Commandment", 30m grade 18 is described
as "thin face climbing up vertical seams", on small wires and
RPs. Starts below the prominent thin crack on the left end of the wall.
Climbs At Staughton Vale 
Name |
Height |
Grade |
Stars |
Piece Of Mind |
8 |
16 |
|
Lady Jayne |
10 |
15 |
|
Vision Of Fools |
11 |
20 |
|
Leather Zen |
11 |
19 |
1 |
Acid And Afterbirth |
16 |
18 |
|
Acid And Afterbirth (DF) |
15 |
19 |
|
Ferris Wheel |
15 |
12 |
|
The Gates Of The North Wind |
30 |
11 |
|
Cousin Jack |
27 |
12 |
|
The First Commandment |
30 |
18 |
3 |
Yet Another Commandment |
30 |
15 |
|
Graven Image |
26 |
13 |
|
Welcome Stranger |
27 |
12 |
1 |
Miner's Right |
27 |
10 |
|
Eureka |
39 |
10 |
|
Joe |
30 |
8 |
|
Further Reading:
Southwest
Victoria, A Rockclimbers Guide - Edited by Chris Watson, Bill
Andrews and Hugh Hardwick. Also available from local climbing shops, or the
VCC.
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