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Staughton Vale
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Climbs *** ** * Hardest Longest Rock Access
16 1 0 2 20 39m Granite 5 Min

Main Cliff, Staughton Vale"Its the worst crag near Melbourne. One route looks sort of worthwhile. It similar to a road cutting". - Neil M.

Right: Main cliff at Staughton Vale.

Access is from Bacchus Marsh, if you're coming from Melbourne. Find the little locality of Balling about 17km south, then head for Staughton Vale. As you sweep around left you shortly come to the "Staughton Vale Outdoor Education Centre". (See approach road map). Take the gravel road on the right for 1.4kms. Park on the left and walk south along a track for about 5 minutes to the top of the cliff. 

"The First Commandment", 30m grade 18 is described as "thin face climbing up vertical seams", on small wires and RPs. Starts below the prominent thin crack on the left end of the wall.

Climbs At Staughton Vale   Push For The Summit

Name Height Grade Stars
Piece Of Mind 8 16  
Lady Jayne 10 15  
Vision Of Fools 11 20    
Leather Zen 11 19  1
Acid And Afterbirth 16 18  
Acid And Afterbirth (DF) 15 19  
Ferris Wheel 15 12  
The Gates Of The North Wind 30 11  
Cousin Jack 27 12  
The First Commandment 30 18 3
Yet Another Commandment 30 15  
Graven Image 26 13  
Welcome Stranger 27 12 1
Miner's Right 27 10  
Eureka 39 10  
Joe 30 8  


Further Reading:
Southwest Victoria, A Rockclimbers Guide - Edited by Chris Watson, Bill Andrews and Hugh Hardwick. Also available from local climbing shops, or the VCC.

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