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Meredith Areas
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Climbs *** ** * Hardest Longest Rock Access
44 0 3 10 20 18m Shale 15 Min

Adrian, leading Roller Blind, 18m 16.The Meredith area crags offer one quality, fun wall, "Oxbow Rocks" and the rest isn't worth a second glance, despite the volume of routes. The rock is best described as "shale", yellow to grey in colour, easily fragmented. Bring a trad rack, and possibly a short length of static rope to rap off as a time saver. 

Right: Adrian, leading "Roller Blind", 18m grade 16 at Oxbow Rocks.

If it's hot, you might be tempted to take splash in the stream. The water was fairly shallow during our August visit, but quite clear, cool and inviting.

Oxbow Rocks

To access this wall, take the Durdidwarrah road from the little town of Meredith until you shortly come to the bridge across the Moorabool river. The good parking is on the other side, however, you want to start your approach hike on the Meredith side of the river, heading downstream. There is no track, so don't expect to find one. (See: detailed drawing for correct approach). The easiest walking is well up on the bank, nearing the ridgeline but without loosing sight of the water. If you hike along the waters edge you'll be in for considerable bush bashing. Follow the river east for 10 to 15 minutes, from above, until it sweeps left and a spine-like ridge appears. Either side of this very narrow ridge has a steep descent. At its terminal point you'll find the 18m cliff, with the water a few feet away.

If you know how to do it without ring barking trees, set your abseil here, to do multiple routes while avoiding the walk around. Below you'll find a series of slanting cracks that offer the area's best routes. As mentioned before the rock can be easily fractured, however, this did not seem to detract from the enjoyment of these fun climbs (just pay attention when placing gear on lead). There are about five cracks in a row and each is well worth a star. With the stream nearby, and sun out, this little crag provides a thoroughly pleasant afternoons climbing, if you're into grades around 15 to 17.
Kent leading "Line Of 79", 14m grade 15.Adrian seconding "Line Of 79", 14m grade 15.
Above: Kent leading and Adrian seconding "Line Of 79", 14m grade 15. Cool looking pockets punctuate the opening moves, then the slanting crack runs to the summit, past a few pitons. A fun climb! The crux is avoiding the bird shit towards the finish. "Dude, this is one shitty hold!". 

Myself leading "Traindangle", 16m grade 17.Adrian, leading "Roller Blind", 18m grade 16.Rusty Piton
Above Left: Myself leading "Traindangle", 16m grade 17. Two old pitons (far right), protect the crux moves. Above Middle: Adrian sinks a nut while leading " Roller Blind", 18m grade 16, a delightful line. Check out this brief mpeg video clip (2.1 meg, 34 seconds).

Protection on Oxbow Rocks is in the form of small nuts and cams, though there are a few old rusty pitons (pictured above right), at crux sections. After a slightly pumpy opening section, Traindangle's crux is the last few moves, where the protection runs out (above pictured piton) and rock quality drops. Never-the-less a very enjoyable lead, as are all the crack routes at this wall.

Fly Rocks

Continue downstream, following the sharp bend for a 100 metres or so. An extremely disappointing little rock appears above a nice inlet. Incredibly there are 6 routes here, most with a single lead bolt. 10 metres is a joke. It would be lucky to make 5. Don't bother, unless you're bored.
Bouldering at Fly RocksBouldering at Fly Rocks
Above: Adrian and Kent bouldering at Fly Rocks. The few bolted lines were too short to bother with.

Under The Wire, Urewera, Castle Wall
Kent bouldering "Mhadaidh Two" 12m grade 18.

Forget it, they're choss. If you really must, go back to your car, drive back to Meredith, and this time take Steiglitz road for 5.2 km, until you hit a bridge. Bush bashing left along the river bank for about 100 metres, without loosing site of the bridge, you'll find a telecom wire spanning the gully. Below it, on the water's edge, is the most pitiful excuse for a crag you'll ever come across. 16 metres, my ass! Its more like half that and the stars in the guide should have negative signs. Why anyone would bother to climb it let alone bolt it is beyond me. I defy anyone to find a more useless, diminutive lump of choss, paraded as a two star climbing destination!

Right: Kent bouldering "Mhadaidh Two" 12m grade 18.

Castle Wall is best reached via the dirt road you past just before driving down to the bridge. Its labelled "Meredith Education Centre". Don't bother.

Climbs At Meredith Areas   Push For The Summit

Oxbow Rocks Height Grade Stars
Upend 14 5  
Line Of 79 14 15 1
Shrink 14 15 1
Roller Blind 18 16 1
Parrallels 18 16 1
Traindangle 16 17 1
The Fifth Diagonal 16 17 1
Loose And Secure 5 12  
Loose And Lost 5 8  
Edgewise 15 6  

Fly Rocks Height Grade Stars
Mos 10 7  
Gnat 8 7  
Fly 9 18 1
Rurp 6 10  
Wasp 6 17  
Ant 6 11  

Under The Wire Height Grade Stars
Escape 13 13  
Colditz 13 14  
Thingers Fin 12 15  
Mhadaidh One 12 20 2
Mhadaidh Two 12 18 2
Stalag Luft 16 13 1
Under The Wire 16 11  
Dug Out 14 5  
Urewera Height Grade Stars
Urewera 10 ?  
Urewera Left Variant 10 3  
Urewera Right Variant 9 3  

Castle Wall Height Grade Stars
Bailey 7 13 1
Mutte 7 9  
Battlement 6 9  
Embrasure 6 7  
Castle Wall 6 14  1
Merlon 7 8  
Rampart 7 6  
Nippa 5 5  
Cratz 8 8  
Cratz Left Variant 8 15 2
Cratz Right Variant 8 8  
Spine 18 7  
Speline 9 8  
Humerous 10 8  
Squatz 11 8  
Squatz Left Variant 11 8  
Squatz Right Variant 11  


Further Reading:
Southwest Victoria, A Rockclimbers Guide - Edited by Chris Watson, Bill Andrews and Hugh Hardwick. Also available from local climbing shops, or the VCC.

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