|For All Your Climbing Gear!
DMM RACK DEAL Total is $1346. (DISCOUNTED prices normally $1106)
This is a "PREMIUM" DMM Rack for under $1000. N/B Only 1 rack available at this Super Special price. Be quick! $999.00
[ Books | Movies | Screen Shots | Best Stuff | Aussie Titles | Latest Reviews | Reviewed Only | All ]
| (3.50 of 5)
|A few words of caution at the end of this review but first I'll run through the good stuff: Dave MacLeod's ascents of Blind Vision (good viewing), Divided Years (the soft Scottish fag cuddles a bush at the end) and Trauma (James Pearson gets the coveted 2nd ascent earlier than Dave); a beautiful bit of climbing by Jude Spanken on Lord of the Flies (or something like that, can't remember the pitch's name right now but the climbing was fantastic); watching Adam Long and James Pearson taking quite a while to re-learn how to slab climb before Adam bagged the FA was pretty funny and one of the stronger segments of the film. A few other Northerners get a run, particularly Kev Shields, and a couple of blokes climb one good pitch on a new route before picking their way off through a pile a choss that must have had the adrenaline running. Ben Cossey's segment provides an Aussie accent of novelty value.
Overall though this DVD is a bit disappointing in following the Hard Grit format and UK scene, a patriotism which is showing its age. Plenty of choss piles feature, many of the "bold routes" just seem like boulder problems and a reasonable number of the falls featured appear to be rookie mistakes...of the sort that I make all the time. All in all they could have done better but I have to admit, the weather was pretty shocking on Blighty last year so it can't have been easy and I'll give these blokes another chance.
I ordered this one off Dave Macleod's site and got great service.
|Climbing in the UK is an acquired taste, and I'm pretty sure most people outside of Britain just don't get it, particularly the entire concept of risking your life for what in most cases seem to be 'highball boulder problems'. However, the climbs contained herein should not be underestimated. Ben Cossey's solo of 'Simba's Pride' is a case in point. Sure, it's only 8 metres in height, but the level of commitment required to climb it is beyond belief. Pity they don't really show you what the landing is all about...
As with most films, this one has its ups and downs - but generally it's certainly worth watching if you harbour even a minute sense of bewilderment for the type of climbing involved - or perhaps even a slight desire to try some of the routes depicted.
Highlights for me were the first ground up onsight of The Angels Share (E8 7a) by Adam Long (or 8 metre Font 7c with multiple mats), the said lead of Lord of the Flies (E6) in Llanberris Pass, Simba's Pride solo, and The Devil is in the Details - an E7 at Black Rocks featuring a 7ft dyno. A very good narrative and excellent camera work by the lads who made 'E11' tops off what altogether is a great film. Just don't have your mother watching when the fall is taken off Meshuga (E9) - now that is ugly...
Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography
Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.
All text, images and video on this site are copyright. Unauthorised use is strictly prohibited.