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Climbing Movies Reviewed
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Black Lung
(Doco) Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt's visit to Utah Bouldering

Format Video Category Non-Fiction
Title Black Lung  Mins 18 
Starring Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt  RRP  
Director Mike Call  Reviews
Edition   Ave Rating ***** (4.50 of 5)

Reviews  

User Comments
Anonymous
4/9/2004
*****
All the climbs are good, filming is pretty good. The only downside is that it's only 18 minutes long. 
Nottobetaken
2/16/2006
*****
A very well made short film by Mike Call centering around the visit of Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon to some of Utah's best bouldering locations. This is quality stuff - not quantity.

Areas visited include Little Cottonwood Canyon, Ibex and Joe's Valley. Some great problems are shown, as well as some great flashes (like Moon's ascent of the famous Copperhead (V10). But not everything is made out to be effortless. Witness Moon's ascent of Bully (V11/12) - Jeff Webb's power testpiece - after which Moon exclaims 'Bloody hell! I think I'm going to have a heart attack!" Moon also attempts the then unclimbed direct start to Bruce Lee (V10) - which was only just recently (6 years later) completed by James Litz at V13.

The main course however is obviously the problem of 'Black Lung' - an insanely simple looking line of literally 3 moves that had repelled the likes of Boone Speed and Steven Jeffrey - the latter being the local strongman who himself had spent 'about 500 attempts trying it' - despite bouldering V13 in the process. The raw power of Jeffrey is further emphasized by the footage of him attempting a repeat of his own problem - No Additives Sit Start (V13) - clearly not a weak person then.

Moon sets to work on the project, and the process of his 3 day efforts are a highlight - showing just how 'unsimple' the problem really is - particularly when it starts snowing!

A must-have for any boulderer.
 
kp
12/8/2007
*****
Just another great B&J offering..... 


Further Reading:
New England Bouldering - Details, purchasing, etc.

 

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