[ This guide contributed by Neil Monteith. Disclaimer: Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. None of the information contained in this document has been verified. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion, route grades may be incorrect and the rock may be poor. The editors of this document take no responsibility for any injury arising from the use of this information. If there are mistakes in this guide then let the editor know by emailing nmoneith@yahoo.com. Download printer friendly PDF version. ]

This is a large cave of excellent rock high up in the valley behind Stapylton Campground with an easy flat walk-in. (See: detailed approach map of walk-in). Hidden amongst vast amounts of choss this area features very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock.

From the Mt Stapylton Campground aboriginal shelter car park walk south east following the east side of a vegetated creek. A few minutes into the walk you will pass an isolated pillar of rock ‘castle crag’ with a few ok routes on it. Keep following the creek, walking along nice kangaroo grass and ferns for ten minutes until you can see a red cave above some large walls up and to the left. Try and locate some rock cairns and follow these up gentle hill. Follow left branch of ‘creek’ up small rock gully on the left side of the cave until you can traverse directly right across exposed rock to get into the cave. A RB is positioned at the end of this traverse to use as an anchor to belay people who may be scared of the traverse. It can also be used to abseil out of the cave when the traverse is wet from rain.

Easier Puzzle 12m 10
Easy trad climbing on big jugs. Start at small corner break 2m left of Half Shark Half Man. Follow break to finish at HSHM anchors FFA Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler, Michael Schedlberger 18.4.03

1) Half Shark Half Man 14m 17
Nice steep and juggy warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Three RB’s and DRB lower off. FFA Joe Morgan-Payler, Stephen Hawkshaw & Neil Monteith 2.3.2003

2) Media Puzzle 16m 23 *
Starts at left end of cave at small rooflet. Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Out left across crux roof past two RB’s then up scoops on jugs (2 RB’s) to good rest. Step right (#1 cam optional) and thug through steep territory past RB to jugs and DRB lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton 5.11.2002

3) Roof of Doom 35m 22
A novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and whipped upside down it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on Stepping on Snakes, traverse left across Army of Ants to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arête past RB to lower off bolts. FFA Neil Monteith, Jaqui Middleton & Joe Morgan-Payler 2.3.2003

Antics 15m 26 **
An impressive five metre roof climb. Follow Army of Ants to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes directly above the ledge past 4 FH's to lip. Back climb to clean. No anchor. FFA Malcolm Matheson & Jacqui Middleton 24.05.2003

4) Army of Ants 15m 26 **
Start just right of small arête in centre of cave. Tough sport route. Don’t wear slip-ons unless you’re OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB’s. Lower off chain. FFA Rohan Archibald, Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton 2.3.2003

Right: Jacqui Middleton on the lower moves of the very steep Army of Ants (27).

5) Stepping on Snakes 14m 23 **
The second route on the right side of the cave. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five FH’s and double RB lower off. FFA Neil Monteith 16.11.2002

6) Dwarf Pumper 8m 20
Far right side of cave. A Nowra style pumpfest with a tricky crux. Two RB’s up steep orange wall. RB lower off at top. FFA Neil Monteith and Joe Morgan-Payler 3.11.2002

Sub Area: Sentinel Wall   
Access: 15-20 minute walk-in, Afternoon sun

On the other side of the access gully is a rock buttress. About 100m left and slightly uphill from the cave is this orange wall with large horizontal pockets. Scramble onto large ledge from the left side to belay.

8) Fot as Huck 20m 17
Starts on the left side of the wall just right of grey roofs. Up slightly overhung wall on big incuts and lots of cam placements to juggy finish. FFA Joe Morgan-Payler 16.11.2002

9) Sunraysia 20m 20
Starts about 4m right of Fot as Muck. Long reaches and a scary runout in the first ten metres. At the horizontal jam crack traverse slightly left to finish up Fot as Huck. FFA Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler 16.11.2002

Right and slightly downhill from Sunraysia is this wall with some obvious crack lines.

10) Tatiana 12m 15 *
Start 2m right of central crack on buttress slightly downhill and right from Sunraysia. Up through thin start to pockets and past technical finish to tree belay. FFA Michael Schedlberger, Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler 18.4.03

11) Know your signals 14m 15
Start 4m right of dirty roof hand crack and right of Tatiana. Follow weakness through thin start to under roof. Watch for loose rock. Traverse left 2m and finish at tree belay. FFA Phil Neville, Michael Schedlberger, Joe Morgan-Payler 18.4.03

The Guardhouse    
Access: 20 mins, Afternoon sun

A small gently overhung amphitheatre of rock with a couple of good Blue Mountains style sport routes and plenty of potential for new routes. The orange wall is clearly visible on the hillside when driving in from the highway past the olive grove. Walk in as for Sentinel Cave (see: detailed approach map). After hopping over a big dead tree about 8 minutes into the walk turn left and follow small creek bed steeply uphill heading for the obvious orange wall high on the hill. Scramble up ledges and small fixed rope to get to base of wall.

Above Left: Topo of the Guardhouse. Above Right: Neil attempting the second ascent of Little George (22).

13) Little George 25m 22 *
Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. Double RB lower off. FFA Jacqui Middleton, Neil Monteith 25.04.2003.

Check out the video clip Little George (3.3 Meg, 53 seconds) - In the setting sun, Jacqui Middleton grabs the FFA. Jac's smooth, leisurely pace appears more dynamic in this footage edited to reduce file size.

Warden Wall   
Access: 6 minute walk-in, Afternoon sun.

Further Reading:   
Grampians Selected Climbs - Guide book authored by Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest and available from local climbing shops or the VCC.

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