Asses Ears, Grampians
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This guide contributed by Neil Monteith. Disclaimer: Rock climbing is a
dangerous sport. None of the information contained in this document has
been verified. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion, route grades may be
incorrect and the rock may be poor. The editors of this document take no
responsibility for any injury arising from the use of this information. If
there are mistakes in this guide then let the editor know by emailing
This remote wall is located to the west of the Main
Asses Ears face. Start walking up the track as for the normal cliff. About
a 100m after the 4WD road turns to a walking track take a right turn at a
cairned intersection in the track. Another couple of hundred metres up the
track take a right turn off the summit track at a large cairn and bush
bash (some cairns) across to the bottom of the large orange Dead Ahead
Cliff. Follow the rock upwards to find Schroeder's Cliff located on the
top of the mountain on the left side. A more detailed access description
can be found in the VCC's guide to The Asses Ear Area.
1) The Green Man 48m 12
Right leaning juggy line on far right side of cliff. Angle eases
considerably after first 8m. Step left across line and up wall to finish
via headwall right of corner. FFA Keith Lockwood & Richard Smith
2) Tokinese 45m 22 *
Start as for The Green Man, about 5m right of Battered Flake. Up easy
crack for 5m then traverse left across break to flake in steepness above.
Up flake on big jugs (FH), traverse right (crux) to hard vertical
transition move and then into good crack. When the angle gets easier step
left on the arête and up this juggy wall to the BF anchor. FFA Neil
Monteith & Marcel Geelen 28.7.2001.
Right: Neil on crux move of the FFA of
3) Battered Flake 35m 21
A good central line on the main face which suffers from some loose rock.
Approach the orange right facing corner by climbing in from the left. Up
the corner (crux), with some small and hard to place gear – bring RP’s.
From under the roof, traverse right a few metres then up the flake crack
above on good jugs. Rap rings are located on the belay ledge. FFA Neil
Monteith & Jono Schimdt 27.05.2001
4) Battered Flake LHV 35m 22? (project)
At roof on BF head left and through roof on jugs. Finish up thin face on
5) Memento 25m 23 *
Blasts up the prominent orange flakes and groove in the centre of the main
face five metres left of BF. Up to shallow right facing flake, then direct
up past two FH's. Step left after 2nd bolt to gain black groove and up.
Run up final slab to rap rings. Loses a star because of bad natural pro.
[Nick on FFA]
FFA Nick McKinnon & Jono Schimdt, 27.5.2001.
Right: Nick on the FFA on Memento (23).
6) Felix 25m 23 **
Awesome thin climbing on grit-like rock. Blank looking wall with five FH’s
just left of Memento. Boulder problem start, middle and end with the
occasional good hold thrown in to ward off the pump. At small ledge
boulder through rooflet and slab easily up to twin rings. FFA Neil
7) Fat Cat 25m 20 ***
The best of a great trio. Ignore the FH and climb pocketed right side of
chimney (wires) then traverse right to BR. Up superb textured slab past
two more BR’s to break (medium SLCD). Finish easily up slab to twin rings
high on ledge. FFA Neil Monteith, Marcel Geelen & Jono Schimdt 30.6.2001
8) Fat Cat Direct 25m 24 *
The desperate crank past the FH steps the grade up quite considerably. FFA
Marcel Geelen, Neil Monteith 28.7.2001
9) Schroeder 70m 14
Start at the chimney flanking the left side of the impressive wall with
bolts. Pitch 1) 30m 14 Up the chimney. At the first chance step right onto
easy angled slab and belay on twin rings above Felix. Pitch 2) 40m 14
Finish up juggy corner above. FFA Athol Fraser & Keith Lockwood Sept 1977
10) Woof 40m 14 *
Megaline. Good climbing. Start up S (which soon wanders off right).
Continue up corner-chimney passing three big overhangs and through a hole
behind the fourth. FFA Chris Baxter, Greg Aimer & Geoff Gledhill 9.6.1996
11) Prison Camp 40m 16
Around the left side of the buttress left of "Woof". Start just right of
chimney gully. Can be done in one pitch with twin ropes - watch out for
rope drag. Pitch 1) 25m 16 Crack through blocks to bulge, a step right
avoids difficulties. Go up short flake and follow huge jugs on right to a
small ledge with a bush.
Pitch 2) 15m 16 Step left and directly up face veering right at the top to
exit onto a small ledge, continue straight up on jugs. Take slings. To
reach abseil chains above BF crawl along ledges on the right. FFA Nick
McKinnon. Marcel Geelen (alt) 27.5.2001.
12) Siamese Corner 35m 19
Orange corner with blocky roof about 6m left of Prison Camp. Pitch 1) 25m
19 Up corner, hand traverse left onto small stance then step back right
and through juggy roof crack to small ledge. Be careful of some loose
looking blocks in the roof crack. Pitch 2) 10m 16 Bulging crack on the
right wall above belay ledge. At first opportunity traverse right onto
small ledge and excellent big thread anchor around bollard. Rap from this
or scramble off right along ledges to reach Battered Flakes anchor. FFA
Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt 1.7.2001.
13) Cheshire 25m 20 *
Start about 60m left of SC at rock cairn. The route follows a left
trending line then climbs an overhung corner. A boulder problem start gets
the blood flowing for the pumpy overhung middle section which is protected
by excellent wires. Natural pro belay on small ledge. Rap off slings
around small bollard. FA Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt 30.6.2001.
Schroeder's Cliff - Neil Monteiths web site, for more pics and latest
Asses Ears Guide - Edited by Glen Donohue and available from the VCC
and most climbing shops.
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