[ This guide contributed by Kieran Loughran. Disclaimer: Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. None of the information contained in this document has been verified. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion, route grades may be incorrect and the rock may be poor. The editors of this document take no responsibility for any injury arising from the use of this information. If there are mistakes in this guide then let the editor know by emailing email@example.com. ]
The positive side of this outcrop is that is a really nice, steep crag with an easy approach. The negative side is that the climbs are short and there aren't many. The cliff is in shade until about 2 pm and catches cooling breezes. It's a nice place early on a warm day but, because it pokes it tiny nose up above anything else in sight, it can be the most hideously cold and windy place in the universe. Apart from that, there is a large slab at the top so most of the climbs seep after rain. There are a couple of new-route options and some bouldering potential.
Drive up Pohlners Track from the Stapylton Campground to a closed 4WD track on the left near the top of the range just before reaching Coppermine Track. Parking is available 100m further along Pohlner's Road. From the car-park the cliff appears as a steep block to the north. Follow the closed 4WD track for about 15 minutes and then turn left onto a walking track that takes you to the crag in a further 5 minutes. The outcrop is conveniently marked on Vicmap's Northern Grampians Sheet
Whatever you do, when close to the crag, don't approach directly from the track when the cliff is first obvious: continue until just past the crag then walk in to the left end. The obvious approach when the crag is first sighted is a horrible mess of boulders, fallen timber and scrub.
1) The Volcano Lover 10m 21* (sport climb)
2) Lake Wobegon 15m 19
3) Harnessing Peacocks 12m 19
4) What's Bred In The Bone 15m 22* (semi-sport climb)