[ This guide contributed by Neil Monteith. Disclaimer: Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. None of the information contained in this document has been verified. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion, route grades may be incorrect and the rock may be poor. The editors of this document take no responsibility for any injury arising from the use of this information. If there are mistakes in this guide then let the editor know by emailing nmoneith@yahoo.com. Download printer friendly PDF version. ]

Good sport and trad climbing between the Sandanista Cliff and Van Dieman's Land on the back side of Taipan Wall. To get to the upper cliff with the excellent sport climbs you will need to climb a route on the left side of the lower cliff. The easiest and quickest is to solo (with care!) Access Line (route number 4) which has a tricky start but then relents to very easy jugs. Another way up is the good grade 21 sport route, Raindancer (route 1). You will have to rap off the ledge to get back to the ground using the rings above Route 1. Double rings for lower off are located above Raindancer (1) for the lower cliff and above Twisted Horizons (10) for the upper cliff. Above Right: Nick McKinnon on the FFA of The Big Payback 17m 25 on the Upper Cliff. All photos on this page by Neil Monteith.

Lower Cliff   

Below Left: Topo shots of the Lower Cliff, routes 1, 2 & 4. Middle: Routes 6 & 7. Right: Routes 7 & 8.

1) * Raindancer 20m 21
FH’s up wall left of arête. Clip rusty carrot bolt to start, swing left on flake (ring bolt) then up very juggy wall which thins to a big crux move. At the top of the pillar head right to double ring anchor. Destined to be a sport trade route. FFA Marcel Geelen, Jacquie Lee, Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon 10.11.2001

2) * Salad Abuse 20m 20
Steep arête with very poor carrot bolt at start. Lean across chasm to get established on wall then jug upward to ledge where the upper routes start from. FFA Peter Stebbins, Daniel Brooks & Fiona Campbell 12.09.1992

3) Romeo is Bleeding 40m 22
(Is this the same route as Salad Abuse?) Start at the left end of the lower cliff at the foot of big ditch. 1. (18) Lean across the zawn and climb the overhanging arête to the terrace. This appears to be Salad Abuse. 2. (22) Walk to the left end of the terrace and drop down to belay on the right of the big red wall. Traverse left to a big mushroom on a ledge. Up and slightly right, then head for the big hanging corner crack and thence the top. FFA Jon Passindale, Roland Foster & Martin Scheel October 1989

4) Access Line 20m 17
The easy way to the upper cliff. In reality its a four move boulder problem off the deck then grade 5 climbing from then on. Starts about 10m right of the Salad Abuse arête on top of small rock. Lean across to jug, swing up and left onto ledge then wander up jugs to upper wall. FSA Neil Monteith September 2001

5) Slam Dunk 20m 22
Start 8m left of The Snatch below steep rounded arête. Boulder off the ground then left out to the crack, under the roof to the arête, then up the grey wall above. FFA Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust 13.06.1998

6) ** The Snatch 15m 23
Superb orange left facing corner. The start is marked. Begin way over right, slither along the ledge to the start. Finish right. FFA Dave Vass & John Gallstone 10.1988

7) Scrape on Through the Underside 28m 22
More like Lindorff grade 20. Starting as for The Snatch, but climb the straight up to the obvious roof crack. Grab the perfect thread hold and thrash leftwards using every traditional trick in the book to gain the lip. Up the juggy offwidth to ledge and finish up left wall. FFA Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith 22.10.2001

8) * Three Course Meal 35m 19
A good route up a major water streak. Starts 7m right of The Snatch below broken easy corner. Entrée – scramble up easy rock to ledge. Main – step left and up steep bulging wall on letterbox pockets with a hard crank to gain small ledge. Dessert – finish up water worn juggy streak which has a thin slab move near the end. Rap off bollard or walk off down to the Upper Cut Lunch Walls rap anchor. FFA Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon 22.10.2001

Upper Cliff   

Below Left: Topo of the upper cliff.

9) Lucky Jesus Houdini Rex 35m 23
Don’t bother with this route if you’re a chicken. Traverse-line across wall 8m left of American Anthrax Attack and directly above hanging gum tree. Shares same start as pitch 2 of Romeo is Bleeding. Traverse left on good holds to mushroom jug, arrange pro, then thin balancy face moves across hanging slab (crux). Brilliant moves now ascend orange rock (poor pro), then back right. Finish up juggy wall above, or belay in ‘chimney’. To descend, abseil from bollard. FFA Goshen Watts & Troy Dunn 27.10.1997

10) American Anthrax Attack 24m 21
Furthest bolted route on the left. A wandering wall climb with several hard sections and some loose rock between the third and fourth FH. At the fifth FH above the roof head right to finish at Twisted Horizons DRB anchor. Mid range cams and some medium wires are required. FFA Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon 21.10.2001

11) * Twisted Horizons 20m 21
Starts just left of small gumtree on ledge. Boulder off ground then up past two FH’s to stance. Head slightly left up small ledges to third FH. Juggy moves up scoop gains the mushroom jug and a stance under a roof. Out through the roof past a FH and onwards up steep headwall past a further FH to top and DRB anchor. Bring a range of mid sized cams to supplement the bolts. FFA Neil Monteith & Marcel Geelen 23.9.2001

12) ** Wired 20m 22
First line of rings on the left about 5m right of Twisted Horizons. Superb climbing on perfect rock which is slightly spoilt by the ledge midway up. Easily to first RB then tough moves through bulge and leftwards on slopers to cave. After resting here head out right on flakes to pockets and join up with Tender Hooks after the fourth RB. Twin RB loweroff. FFA Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon 10.11.2001

13) * Tender Hooks 18m 24
Start 7m right of Twisted Horizons. Climb past four ringbolts up balancy overhung flake to conclusion up juggy roof and headwall past another two ringbolts. Lower off twin rings. FFA Neil Monteith 7.10.2001. Right: Neil on the FFA.

14) ** The Big Payback 17m 25
Start 7m right of Tender Hooks at little alcove on far right side of ledge. Bouldery start up flakes then up into big scoop. Crux full stretch from undercling to gain flat-topped hold. Rest in the cool cave then out the overhung right side with difficulty to twin bolt lower off. FFA Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith 21.10.2001

15) Glue Pot Drive 9m 18
Thin face with three rings on outer facing side of chasm down and to the right of The Big Payback. Bridging against the back wall up high is to be avoided. A good route for a belay slave. Best way to approach is to solo the first half of Route 4. FFA Neil Monteith (solo) 6.11.2001

Further Reading:   
Cut Lunch Walls - Neil Monteiths web site, for more pics and latest updates.

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