(See Also: Bouldering Guide).
Update April 2011: There is a payment for camping at Red Rock Camp - $5 per car (2 people) or $2.50 per night per person. Barry no longer operates the camp - his son Andrew does. Andrew and simmone have the same phone number as Barrys old number as a contact number.

Barely half an hour from Horsham, Black Ian's Rocks offers a large quantity of great single pitch routes all closely spaced together and within minutes from the road. Tried of bashing into remote Grampians crags via arduous approach walks? Too many in your group with mixed levels of talent for long multi-pitching? Want to throw a top rope over a large volume of routes in the day, or perhaps have your group knock off a lot of nice leads without you all trekking off in different directions? Look no further than this little gem of a crag. It's all there, in one user friendly cliff, with most lines averaging about 15 metres. Want to practice your jamming skills? There's plenty here to loose some skin on. Hard face routes? It's got them. 

Camping is also possible. From the VCC: "There is now a new camp-site on the private bush block just next to Black Ian's rocks. Look out for a big sign pointing you to "Red Rock Camp". This camp has a shed, lots of off-street parking and a freshwater tank. And, soon, a box for you to put a few bucks in! The walk from your car to the cliff should now take you about 35 seconds. The site was set up by the local farmer Barry Bell, because he didn't like having to drive his stock past climbers bivvying by their cars! You can just rock up, or you can contact Barry on 53 83 7506 or bbell@wimmera.com.au."

Above Right: First view of Black Ian's Rocks from the drive in.

To gain access head south out of Horsham down the Henty Highway taking a right on "Mockinya" road. Very shortly you'll come to Clark's Lane on the left. (See: Approach Map). Drive down this dirt road bearing right at the T intersection. The road will swing around to the left and dip down (beware the sand) before rising slightly again. Park on the next corner, and walk along the fence, either following the walking trail or the 4 wheel drive track for about 300m. Then scoot uphill to the cliff base. 

Right in front of you, is Gallows Pole (17) and Chancery Lane (18), the former with tricky finger locks, the later with bomber hand jams. Both routes have only a few hard opening moves before easier terrain is reached. Both routes end through a distinctive "toilet seat" hole in the top out. If you're looking for a warm up lead, try "Decree Nisi" (pictured left) at grade 16. It takes the open book corner a short ways left of the approach track. The crux is at about three quarter height, where a couple of tricky face moves depart you from the crack, which offers good protection. Head left to top out. 

Above Left: Michael leads the warm up route "Decree Nisi" grade 16. Below Right: Unknown climber leading "Objection Sustained", grade 18.

If you're looking to sink your mitts into something a bit harder the ever popular "Objection Sustained" at grade 18 is well recommended and can be found right of the approach track. The crux is pretty obvious where the crack becomes overhanging at about 2/3rds height. For a similar 18, but minus the jamming, try Prosecutor left of the approach track. The threatened hand jamming never actually presents itself, despite the overhanging cracks. Just when you think you'll be forced to into a skin tearing jam, a delightful crimp will appear on the face, or a nice edge deep within the crack. Well recommended! One route left you'll find Zuma at grade 22, very hard, even with the benefit of a top rope. There's no avoiding the jams this time, with the crux moves requiring some hard hauling over a smooth overhanging bulge.

Above Left: Kent top roping Prosecutor, grade 18. Above Middle: Owen top roping Ok I Confess, grade 23. Above Right: Karen Anwin on Malicious Intent (21), Photo By Jill Gara.

A definite must, is "Ok, I Confess" at grade 23. In the picture (above middle) you can see the climber entering the crux. The key hold, hard to spot otherwise, is chalked and high on his left. Utilising this hidden gem you can torque into the smooth scoop, pop another two moves and gain the victory jug above. A few easy moves allow you to de-pump, then there's just one last reachy move before the top out.

There are a large number of quality routes at Black Ian's to occupy your day, especially in the 17 to 25 grade range. It's so easy to toss a top rope over anything you might not want to lead, and the access such a breeze, it's no wonder this place sees many climbers each year. An ideal spot for maintaining contact within a larger group, single pitch leading, top roping, it's all here. The only thing you might miss is a little shade, though you can duck under some of the shallow caves to escape the sun.

Climbs At Black Ian's Rocks:   

Items in green made it into the Mentz and Tempest "Grampians Selected Climbs" guide, so might be more promising prospects, though "Power Without Glory" is mentioned as one to avoid.

Further Reading:   
Grampians Selected Climbs - Guide book authored by Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest and available from local climbing shops or the VCC.

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