Bad Moon Rising Wall, Grampians
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This guide contributed by Neil Monteith. Disclaimer: Rock climbing is a
dangerous sport. None of the information contained in this document has
been verified. Treat all fixed gear with suspicion, route grades may be
incorrect and the rock may be poor. The editors of this document take no
responsibility for any injury arising from the use of this information. If
there are mistakes in this guide then let the editor know by emailing
nmoneith@yahoo.com. ]
This
wall resides at Hollow Mountain, Grampians, Victoria. These are the slabby
streaked walls between Tribute Wall and Van Dieman’s Land. The routes and
rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side
is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best
easy jug fests in the Grampians. Surprisingly the harder routes were all
but ignored for many years until this guide was being written.
A few weekends and the area sprung from
only two easy routes to quite a collection of nice climbs. Descent from
the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on
the ledge above Revenge Of The Chicken. Cliff faces into the sun most of
the day.
Location: Walk through the
Tribute Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree to large open rocky
platform. The cliff to the west (right) is Bad Moon Rising Wall. If you
continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van
Dieman’s Land Amphitheatre. Routes described right to left.
Above: Topo shot of wall. Above
Right: Jackie Bernardi on the second ascent of All the Way to Eleven
(22). Below Right: James Pfrunder on the first ascent of All the
Way to Eleven (22).
1: Raunchy Rooster 18m 22* [Sport]
Another good sport route. Surprisingly easy
if you can crimp hard. Furthest right most bolted route near the entrance
of the chasm. Four UB's and a FH. Second bolt is a scary clip. Lower-off
using anchors above Rage And Ruin. Mike File 2005-07-23
2:
Rage And Ruin 18m 23* [Sport]
Nice face climbing with a pumpy surprise finish. Located on far right side
of wall at rightwards arching undercling flake. Layback up flake to start
for 2m, then blast straight up the thin face above to horizontal. Up
slightly right on orange streak to last bolt. Fight directly up to top.
Six u-bolts and double RB lower-off. Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Mike
File 2005-07-03
3: All the Way to Eleven 18m 22*
[Sport]
Start as for, and clip first two bolts on, Rage And Ruin. Step down and
head diagonally left across the black streak & up the orange headwall past
a further 3 U's and a FH (6 bolts in total). Needs a lower off anchor.
James Pfrunder, Jackie Bernardi and a cast of thousands 2005-07-31
4: Black Streak Project 20m 0 [Trad]
Adam Demmert has his eye on this line. Might go at grade 24+
5: Chicken Head Hunter 25m 23**
[Sport]
Elegant face route in a similar vein to Diazepam. Very thin start which
eases considerably at the halfway point. At least six bolts and a double
U-bolt lower off. Adam Demmert & James Pfrunder 2005-07
6: Revenge Of The Chickens 25m 24**
[Sport]
The best route on this cliff. Start as for Chicken Head Hunter. Up this to
bolt three, then step left and follow line of UB's up the increasingly
pumpy and difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off. Adam
Demmert, Malcolm Matheson & Neil Monteith 2005-07-20
7: Bitten Finger 22m 17 [Mixed]
The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two
parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the
crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just
left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt
plate. Will Monks & Ben Cirulis.
8: Headless Chickens 22m 15 [Trad]
2m L of Bitten Fingers. Easily up orange patch to bulge, which is breached
via a small crack/weakness with great gear and buckets. Headless
chickenheads keep the slab above interesting. Take wires & small-med cams.
Ben Cirulis & Will Monks.
9: Octohexarian 27m 8 [Trad]
The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards. Starts about
10m right of Bad Moon Rising and 4m left of Headless Chickens. Unknown
1980’s
10: Bite The Hand 23m 11* [Trad]
Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of Bad Moon Rising below
light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey
streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue
up on jugs to top. Descend via double u-bolts above Revenge Of The
Chickens Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker 2005-07-02
11: Bad Moon Rising 30m 14 [Trad]
The landmark right facing leaning corner on the left side of the wall. The
line looks good but the rock quality is fairly suss in many places. Bring
a full rack. James McIntosh & Melanie Taws 1986-11-08
12: Puddlejugs 20m 17 [Trad]
The prominent arete left of the Bad Moon Rising corner. Climb the Bad Moon
Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the
overhung face moving left around the arête, and follow the right-hand
crack to the top. Ben Cirulis & Jo Hugman 2005-07-31.
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