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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
New Buffalo Guide "2023" - call for information
gfdonc
29-Aug-2023
7:28:37 PM
Hi,
It's time I announced I've been working on a complete revision to the guidebook for Mt Buffalo.
It's about 90% complete at present, and I have plans to finalise over the next 3 months and have it back from the printers before Christmas.
If you have any info, beta or new routes please send them through. crashdog@toal.id.au
regards
Steve
gfdonc
29-Aug-2023
7:29:25 PM
Also, anyone know who was toprope soloing on the Waterfall area last Sunday? Looked like a new route. If it's you reading this, I was the one who waved.

gordoste
30-Aug-2023
12:06:00 PM
You heard it here first! Who said Chockstone is dead?
Seriously this is really cool news. The crew from Buffalo Boulders in Myrtleford have been putting up some boulder problems that would be a good inclusion.
lightfoot
27-Sep-2023
11:51:16 AM
Awesome!! I'll take 2!
bones
5-Jan-2024
6:45:51 PM
Really enjoying the new guidebook Steve. Great work.

MisterGribble
5-Jan-2024
7:26:04 PM
On 5-Jan-2024 bones wrote:
>Really enjoying the new guidebook Steve. Great work.

Is it out? Where can I get a copy
bones
8-Jan-2024
7:48:13 AM
https://crashdog.com.au/bcg/

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Jan-2024
6:54:36 PM
Thanks bones.

Although the link indicates that Bogong in Melbourne has the Guide, I went there this afternoon to buy a copy and they had sold out, with only the shop-copy remaining for people to look at if they wish.

MisterGribble
16-Jan-2024
2:43:18 PM
Climbing Anchors have a couple, maybe only one now as I scored a copy this arv.

Question - Are sports routes denoted by the letter ĎSí in a red circle?
I ask as this isnít explicitly mentioned in the Sports Climbing section of each book and there are some climbs eg Substance Abuse and The Dreaming which are all bolted (from memory) yet donít have this whereas Chronic does?
DiscussÖ..

The QR codes are a great idea and all up the guide is a winner, getting in a lather for a trip in FebÖ

gordoste
19-Jan-2024
9:02:33 AM
If you're there on the weekend of 17th there is a crew from Albury heading up, not sure if I'll be able to make it though.
Lightfoot
19-Jan-2024
10:54:42 AM
Camping store in bright has a couple. Worth calling 1st.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26-Jan-2024
12:59:00 PM
Got my copy today.
Thanks Steve for your huge effort in collating it together and taking the time to verify what you could. It is a worthy testament to your efforts.

I thought Iíd support the lesser outlets in buying my copy so hereís some feedback on that experience.
Myrtleford Information Centre has no copies but helpfully contacted Bright Information Centre which only has one copy of Volume Two (The Plateau - only!!) left.
I obtained the complete set from Bright Outdoor Centre, and that store has four complete sets left.

I had no idea that there are so many outdoor stores in Bright, and typically the last one that I went to was the correct one!
All good.
:-)

Hey gfdonc, do you want ongoing information / corrections to be posted to this thread for easy finding in future?

If so, I can start with Ethical Drum, Page 54, the first ascent used one only knifeblade (short thin one - partially set), to turn the second (upper) lip, otherwise it was a clean-aid ascent.

A recollection for the recordÖ
In hindsight I regret the use of that blade but at the time I was mentally fried from placements below me crumbling as I passed them by that stage Ö
Itíd be Gd M8 without the blade. To my knowledge the only attempted prior ascent was by Bill Andrews who fell from the first lip blowing out knife blades he had placed for protection enroute and taking a ground fall as a consequence.

Yeah itís aid, so whatís with the details I hear some saying.
Well I will tell you. Elimination of aid by cleaner ascents matters, so knowing what first ascentionists did is important in that con_text.
Who knows, one day it might go free. I wonít see that in my lifetime, but when I started climbing mid grade 20ís werenít heard of, let alone mid grade 30ís!
:-)

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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