| Friction Knots
 The Prusik Knot
 The good old prusik knot is very, very useful. All you need is a loop
      of cord which you can make using 6 or 7mm accessory cord and a double
      fisherman's knot. With one or two prusiks you can  ascend a
      rope, or rig a  z-pulley to haul up an
      injured climber, or backup an
      abseil. Suffice it to say
      it's worth learning this gem of a knot. There are numerous variations on
      the prusik such as the "autoblock", but follow these steps to
      tie the standard prusik knot:
 
    
    As you can see you simply wrap the loop of cord around the
      rope going through the inside of each previous wrap. The more wraps the
      "grippier" the knot. Three wraps is generally enough.  Step
      6: Pull the knot tight, neaten up the wraps and use the tail loop to clip
      into. Leaving the knot a little loose it can be slid up and down the rope.
      Weight the knot and it will grab the rope and lock off. Note: this form of
      prusik knot can sometimes be difficult to loosen once it has been tightened by the
      weight of a climber.
 The "Klemheist"
      and "AutoBlock" Knot
 The difference with the Klemheist (also called "Machard", or
      "French Prusik") compared to the normal
      Prusik is that it can be moved once weighted and will work with webbing as
      well as cord. This can be very handy in
      certain situations. Follow these steps to tie a Klemheist:
 
    Step 1: Simply
      wrap a loop of cord around the rope several times. Step 2: Feed the
      bottom
      tail through the top tail and clip bottom tail with your load.
 The
      "Autoblock" is essentially the same knot as the Klemheist,
      except that in the last step you simply clip both tails together with a
      carabiner, rather than feeding one through the other. The Bachman Knot
 This knot makes use of a carabiner as a handle to ease shifting the
      knot up and down the rope. Note if you pull down on the carabiner, it will
      unlock the knot, moving it downwards. Likewise yank the carabiner upwards
      to shift it in that direction. This knot is not so good on icy ropes.
      Follow these steps to tie a Bachman knot:
 
    Steps 1 & 2: Clip your loop of cord
      through a carabiner and begin wrapping the cord around the rope, feeding
      it through the carabiner with each pass. Keep the wraps nice and
      snug.  Step 3: Allow the tail of the cord to hang down (as
      pictured), and clip your load to this protruding tail. Do not clip your
      load to the carabiner functioning as the "handle".
 One Method Of
      Racking Your Accessory Cord
 Here's one way to rack your prusik cords so that they have a small profile
      on your harness gear loops. Simply twist the cord about it self. Follow
      theses steps:
 
    When you need to deploy the cord, a quick shake will work out the
      kinks.
  
       
 
      Further Reading:Prusik 
      Knot - Explanation of how to tie from Tom's Sydney Canyoning site.
 Prusik Knot
      - From from Geoff Kuenning's web site.
 Autoblock
      - Backing up an abseil. From rockclimbing.com web site.
  
      
 
      
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