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Munter Hitch
** Note: Picture below is incorrect.
Braking part of the rope should not be on the same side as the gate of the
carabiner.
This knot is useful for both abseiling and belaying. It's advisable to
use a pear-shaped locking carabiner, and try to avoid cross-loading it.
The knot will "flip" as opposite strands of the rope are pulled,
this is normal. To lock the knot, apply the braking hand by moving the
slack line parrel with the loaded line. See pictures below:
Figure A: Here you're feeding out slack when belaying, or you're
abseiling down. Figure B: To lock the Munter Hitch draw your brake
hand up parallel with the load line. Figure C: The knot will
correctly "flip" into this position as you take in slack when
belaying.
Further Reading:
Italian/Munter
Hitch - On the Petzl web site.
Munter Hitch -
On the Virtual Links web site.
Belaying
With The Munter - From Climbing Magazine's web site.
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