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Topic Date User

Knots 28-Nov-2007 At 1:06:59 PM AlanD

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When Andrew Pavey (MD of Spelean) did the tests back in the 70's at UNSW, the bowline came in at 50% reduction and what you guys call a figure 8 at 35% reduction in strength.

What you guys need to be very careful of when quoting stats is that what climbers call a figure 8 knot not actually a figure 8, but may be referred to as a figure 8 loop or a double figure 8, I know Andrew's work referred to the term double figure 8, but is what you refer to a figure 8. When you see stats, make sure of the actual knot which has been tested, preferably visually. The origin of almost all knots is sailing, but the names have been corrupted by specific types of users and this can lead to confusion.

Just to emphasise this, the UNE web site (linked through the Bowline knot on the Chockstone’s Tech tips, refers to the single fisherman’s knot, but shows actually just one side of the double fisherman’s knot and the Chockstone’s double fisherman’s knot shows it both correctly ties (lower pink rope picture) and incorrectly tied (being tied) and there is a difference in strength.

** I'm knot having a go at anyone or any groups, just trying to get the point across that care needs to be taken i.e. that the correct knot is actually tied.