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Cam failure discussion 21-Apr-2015 At 7:29:35 PM dmcg

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Never gave that much thought to the role of friction in cam holding ability until standing in aiders clipped to what I thought a 'bomber' 1.5 friend placement, up and under a small rooflet at Bungonia i.e. the cam was sticking straight downwards from well in a parallel sided 1 inch crack behind the rooflet and I was standing in aiders clipped into it, fully weighting the cam happily hand drilling a bolt hole.
After a minute or so I shifted my weight slightly in the aiders and was instantly airborne.

On getting back up to that point and having a good look at where there cam blew - it did look a ‘bomber’ placement as far as shape of the crack, cam position in the crack and load direction went, but the sides of the crack were glass smooth. Smooth (very) rock lesson learned and treated any Bungonia cam placement with a tad of suspicion ever since.