Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic	Date	User
Replacing nuts with knots	3-Apr-2014 At 2:05:24 PM	stuart h
Message
Probably not a surprise that the strength of cord etc used in jammed knots has been looked at in Germany: http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/knotene.htm I have abseiled off jammed knots several times but have rarely used them as pro while leading. As you would expect, a lot fiddlier (sp?) than placing wires. Usually I have used variations of fishermens in cord and overhands in sling. As suggested above, I have found it good to tie smaller knots close in front of bigger knots to increase the jamming/wedging effect. To lead anything steep you will want plenty of various size knots tied in advance but I can't really picture a convenient way to organise a big rack. Have fun.

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