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Topic Date User

Is anodising slipperier than bare alloy 4-Dec-2012 At 12:23:43 AM Jim Titt

Message

On 3/12/2012 TonyB wrote:
>On 3/12/2012 egosan wrote:
>>http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm
>
>"With only one exception no device available on the market is proven to
>be capable of stopping a climber in a reasonably long factor 2 fall and
>with most devices the belayer risks severe rope burns and loss of control
>even in considerably lower (less than 1) factor falls."
>
>What's "reasonably long" ?

That´s like "how long is a piece of string". It depends on the device, the faller weight, the rope, the belayers hand strength and the belayers ability to withstand skin burns. There are a couple of ways of defining when the critical point is reached, Petzl use the energy going into the braking hand based on medical work to do with friction burns, the DAV and CAI use a simpler length of slip through the braking hand based on experience in drop testing with humans and experience of accidents.
Avoiding long falls or wearing suitable protective gloves are the recommended way of avoiding finding out what is too long.