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Topic Date User

What is better 15-Jul-2012 At 9:23:53 PM Olbert

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I have used the Grigri and the Click-up but haven't ever even seen a Smart. As a preface, I must agree with pretty much everyone here, get an atc - you will be a much better belayer for learning all the good habits with one of those before progressing (if you ever do) to an assisted breaking device.

As for the specific atc to get I agree with the suggestions of an autoblock belay device - they are atc style devices with an extra hole for a caribiner and can be bloody useful on multipitches with pretty much no downside compared to a standard atc. I would suggest something like the Black Diamond Guide: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/belay-rappel/atc-guide-belay-rappel-device/ or the Mad Rock...thing: http://www.madrockclimbing.com/products/product.asp?_item=100084. One advantage of the Black Diamond Guide is that is a magic beer opener!

Now, as for the assisted breaking devices:
Lots and lots of people own Grigri's, it is the most popular assisted breaking device for a reason. It's good at what it does! If your doing lots of sport climbing, with lots of dogging and frigging around, then there is nothing better (in my and many other peoples opinion). It has some shortcomings though: it's only a single rope device so no double ropes or double rope abseils (very common). It also adds extra load on the gear so if you're trad climbing then it is generally not thought of as a good idea in Australia.

As for the Click up I have had a little experience in it and it solves some problems such as being able to handle double ropes and do a double rope abseil, while still being classed as an assisted breaking device. Unfortunately, it doesn't really do anything well. It's harder to use than either an atc or a Grigri when on a single rope and harder still if you want to use doubles. The locking and unlocking mechanism is a bit awkward and abseiling with this thing is a bitch! That said, I have only used one a few times and maybe somebody more experienced with it would have better things to say about it.

For the Mammut Smart, I haven't actually used or even seen one, but I feel there is a good reason for that. Nobody else I have ever met thought it was a good enough product to buy one...I would steer clear of this one until you get to talk to someone who already has one.