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Help a chap out 6-Jun-2012 At 7:18:50 PM crazyjohn

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On 6/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
> or jugging
>the fixed line on Serpentine to work the top pitch then coming back and
>doing the first pitch later for the full tick, toprope rehearsal,

Actually, it would be more like jugging up the fixed line to the second pitch of Serpentine, leaving a backpack with lunch and puffy jackets, porno mag, beer, etc., then rapping back down and climbing the first pitch, have some lunch, then send the second pitch. It has probably been done many times this way. Ive done it this way. Why not? In fact, thanks for bringing up this comparison because I was going to use it!

How about this: You get up to serpentine on a cold day and realize you are going to need at least a jacket after leading the first pitch to belay your second who obviously wants to free the first pitch as well. You decide you will need to take up a backpack because the second does not want to free climb in a puffy. So now you decide to take up a backpack with jackets, lunch, etc. So far, pretty damn obvious.

Now imagine there is already a fixed line up to the second pitch, which is usually the case. But instead of jugging up the fixed line, you lead the route with two ropes, then throw down a rope to have your partner tie on your backpack, then haul up the backpack hand over hand and then throw your haul rope back to the ground. You completely ignore the already fixed line out of ethics and lead the first pitch with an extra rope only so you can say that you didnt use the fixed rope. This is essentially your argument for the fixed lines up to Heart.

>What would happen if someone bootied the fixed ropes? Giant clusterf---
>on the route for the next couple of days, right? So a smooth ascent of
>the Salathe during normal traffic conditions requires the use of 200m of
>fixed ropes? That doesn't detract from the route at all?

The lines get taken down by the climbing ranger all the time. You can rap the route with a couple 50s if you wake up on heart after hauling your gear to find the ropes magically gone. If you need to jug up to heart you can easily replace the ropes by climbing freeblast. Look, bro: If you knew ANY of the logistics involved it might be an interesting discussion. But you simply do not know what the F you are talking about here. Im not saying you could not raise some points if you did know the situation, you just simply are talking out your ass about this.

EDIT: And its not a crime to haul up Freeblast. Its not that hard to do. Its just logistically smarter to haul up to heart. You certainly dont HAVE to. And it doesnt destroy the route if the fixed lines are down. You are the one trying to paint the route in black and white. This could be alot more interesting if you stuck with climbs you were familiar with.