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Topic Date User

Help a chap out 6-Jun-2012 At 4:56:38 PM crazyjohn

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On 6/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 6/06/2012 sliamese wrote:

>:D Why would you sleep on the ledge if your first step the next morning
>is to rap to the ground, then climb back up to where you started from???
>I'm sure it is an amazing route, but what you described is a little bit
>bullshit. Not unethical, not cheating, not wrecking anything for anyone
>else.........it's just a little bit bullshit. If you're unable to see that,
>maybe you could use a bit of deprogramming from the whole yosemite cult.

There is a point that you are making but dont actually state it. That is the ethic of: do not go back to the ground once you leave the ground. Lee and Zac from the blue mountains had this ethic on their first trip to the valley. But it is kind of strange. If you think of the salathe as one long pitch instead of a class V big wall you can work it like a sport route and climb it in a day with no hauling from the top to the bottom. The people who have done that have spent many days working it stashing gear, rapping in to work pitches, etc. So what is worse? Its the same logic as redpointing a route. Sure its great to onsight a route. I dont think its bullshit in any way to work a route, though. Using smart logistics on big walls is totally personal and totally specific to the route. There are very few hard and fast rules. Read Tommy Caldwell's article in the last Ascent. He talks about having his ethics, not deteriorate, but change over the course of his big walling career.