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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Help a chap out 6-Jun-2012 At 4:39:32 PM crazyjohn
Message
On 6/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 6/06/2012 crazyjohn wrote:
>>
>>You mean "people" like Royal Robbins, Tom Frost and Chuck Pratt who fixed
>>to heart ledge on the first ascent?
>
>No, I think it was cool that those dodgy old dudes were doing those routes
>dodgy style so long ago. It's awesome that Harding spent a year yo-yoing
>up and down the Nose with his ropes hanging off it the whole time......how
>do you think it would go down if I tried to do an ascent like that now?

Look, I hope you don't take this personal, but you don't really have a clue about what the salathe was about. This climb was a direct challenge to the siege tactics used by Harding on the Nose ascent. They were quite aware of it at the time of the first ascent. Which is why after jugging up to Heart ledge, they chucked off all their ropes and went to the top. Total commitment! It was one of the most inspirational feats in mountaineering history. Fixing to Heart ledges was just logistically the smart thing to do at the time. It was not a siege tactic like Harding's. It is done the same way now for similar reasons. It is interesting how you just invoke the names of these old guys and bandy them about as if just knowing them entitles you to make claims about the style.

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