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Topic Date User

Ripped daisy bartack 17-Apr-2012 At 12:27:19 PM Olbert

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On 17/04/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>If you are always clipped into the same loop it could be simple wear. The
>stitching isn't in shear like a normal sling, but is being ripped open
>so most of the load is on the first line of stitching. I wonder if the
>stitching was able to be worn by the biner?
>
>
>If you are doing a fall/energy/resultant load calc you can do it this
>way:-
>energy = mgh (mass x gravity x height fallen)
> E = 110 x 9.8 x 0.3 = 323 J
>
>then work out what the distance (d) that energy was spread over (for short
>fallls include climber slump in their harness, for a short daisy and fat
>climber I'd guess that at 0.1m)
>
>The averged force (there could be peaks in there also) = E/d = 3234 N
>= 3.2 kN

Hmmm...that seems a lot easier than my method. I still reckon the average force is smaller than that because a human body bending and flopping will increase the time, thereby decreasing the average but keeping the energy the same. If you use the E = F * d formula then the acceleration distance would be larger because of your body bending, still meaning the average force is smaller.