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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.
Topic
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Date |
User
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trad + grigri |
28-Feb-2012 At 6:55:17 PM |
Olbert
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Message |
On 28/02/2012 Linze wrote:
>On 28/02/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>
>>If I am reading this correctly, and you are doing trad multipitch, make
>>sure that your belay anchors are good for upward loading as well
>>as downward!
>>☺
>
>??????!!!!!! am i missing a joke here???
He's talking about if you take a big whipper high on a multipitch, you partner catches you and then she gets yanked up. If the belay is only made with a downward loading in mind then her being yanked up might rip out the entire belay. This might leave both you and her dangling off that piece you just fell on...not a happy scenario.
As for the trad + grigri = bad theory, in most situations that is bullshit. If you are doing a route with marginal gear than the extra force generated by an autolocking device might make the crucial difference between the only protection between you and the ground failing or not. Most of the time, most people will be doing routes that have a much higher safety margin than this. Really though, it's up to each climber/partner to make this decision. |
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