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Topic Date User

Anchoring advice 7-Apr-2010 At 11:23:21 AM cruze

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It may be possible to readily adjust the direction of a cam in a vertical crack to align it for upwards force in order to escape a belay etc.

Passive gear is generally less versatile.

And yes, of course, it does depend on rock, situation, etc etc etc.....

My post was merely to emphasise that it may be too late to readjust an anchor to safely anchor a suspended/injured leader if you haven't given some thought to upwards forces.

Personally I have never had to escape a belay to ascend to an injured climber. But I think that it would be prudent for all of us to consider worst case scenarios. Even (especially) beginners. Leader falls off low angled climbs at Araps like Syrinx (for instance) are far more likely to cause serious injuries than leader falls off Despatched (which someone was on on Sunday).