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Topic Date User

Anchoring advice 7-Apr-2010 At 10:11:09 AM cruze

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Upwards pieces are not merely for stopping a light belayer from being yanked up during a leader fall on the next pitch.

In the event of a bad leader fall on that next pitch it may become necessary to secure the climber and escape the belay to ascend to the climber. In these instances, the entire weight of the climber (and possibly you depending on the situation) will need to be held by the belay. If the belay has been set to accomodate only an outwards or downwards force this will make it very difficult to escape the belay safely. Remember that the entire weight of an unconscious climber may be on your harness and/or the anchor. Shifting around to reorganise a belay may be very difficult if not impossible.

A cam in a horizontal may be sufficient.

It may be a good idea to think about this when setting up your next belay before passing all of the gear to the leader.