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Impersonate a Chocky Mini Rocks Comp Extraveganza 18-Dec-2009 At 11:26:14 AM evanbb

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New Route: Banana Captain; 280m, crux 23. bolted

Takes an obvious line through some good rock and some terrible choss. required extensive cleaning and we were attacked by birds.

Was bolted over 3 weeks and used over 65kg of stainless steel. Half the bolts have been pull tested; the other half don't have glue. It's fun guessing which is which as you clip them.

Access:
Fly to Scotland and catch a bus to Aberdeen. Hire bikes from the local shop, then head west out to the cliffs. Take the Aberdeen Head road for 16km, taking the left fork at 6km. A large tree at 16.4km is a good spot to leave the bikes. Rack up here.

Walk 3.5km to the cliff edge and locate belay bolts set well back from the cliff. They're actually tent pegs. Rap 280m to the ocean. P1 starts up and left 4m.

P1: 23, 45m
Up and left to clip U bolt. Up through dinner plates and sand through the steepness. Jugs appear when you need them. DBB
P2: 14, 60m.
Access pitch largely. Bring some big gear or use the sparsely spaced bolts.
P3-7 12?-24 climbing
Up as you please, following the bolts.