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Topic Date User

Stressing a rope 22-Jul-2009 At 12:19:00 PM cruze

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Having never felt the inclination to lead in a gym, can someone please let me know what technique gyms teach for the belayer, if any? In particular, when I watch people belaying leaders I often see them stand back from the wall and give slack by walking in towards the wall. I wouldn't normally recommend this technique and believe that the belayer should aim to stand as close to directly under the first piece as possible/safe. I also never see them offer dynamic belays of any description (such as a little jump during the catch).

I am not sure whether this is taught technique or whether it is personal preference. The height of the first clip may predicate that a little jump isn't possible. I even see people using the floor anchors which isn't always/necessarily the best technique either.

Such hard catches are likely to significantly decrease the enjoyment of falling whilst leading in a gym, and increase the wear on a rope used.