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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
ACT climbing rack 17-Jul-2009 At 11:10:37 AM evanbb
Message
Awesome, something I'm qualified to comment on.

Yep, it's granite, and mostly quite pointy granite. I don't think there's anything unusual required. I usually climb with a rack of nuts, but don't place the very small ones very often; a selection of cams, again nothing gets placed more often than anything else. The cracks aren't usually very parallel, so even if it is a hand crack, there's usually scope for a whole range of cam and nut placements. Big cams (#4+5 BD) are handy, and I've placed my 4 quite a few times, and often in a placement that has relieved some pretty serious stress. Add some big hexes on slings, and you should be fine. If you were going to double up on anything, I'd go for medium/big nuts and hand sized cams.

Brass wires can be useful, but I very rarely place them. That said, I don't climb slabs, and small wires might be more useful there. Tricams could be useful too, but because of the pointy nature of the rock, I reckon you'll spend a lot of time fiddling around looking for a stable placement.

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