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Climbers rescued off Margarine Ridge, Mt Hay 18-Dec-2011 At 10:58:10 AM Alan Silva

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Hi Peter,

I've been using the 'Marge' as a great way to get fit for my mountain trips in NZ & Asia over the years.

The last 4 times I've done the route I've climbed the black wall as follows:

From where P7 tops out you can get an easy start onto the black wall from the wind scooped cave 5m to right of the top of P7 (The wind scoop is about 8m left from the guidebook chossy chimney).

The route traverses up & across (right) the wind scoop (the rock is not solid - crust on a sandy core) - but there is a good placement for a large blue cam. Head across 5m on a ledge and then up to flake where you can slot in two small cams; one in a pocket on the black face then the second in the flake itself. Move left on thin moves to a higher ledge then use the bulges to climb up to the iron stone (wafer) holds. Traverse right (8m) easy (one cam in wafers) to the top of chossy (guide book route) chimney and bridge last few metres to the scrubby ledge stance that overlooks down the whole of the ridge.

A few long slings are needed to rig cams due zig-zag of route to reduce rope drag (though when rope soling there is no such thing as rope drag).

There have been plenty of climbing parties do this rising traverse on the black wall in lieu of the chossy chimney - the grade is only around 12 and is well protected on sandy holds.

My only comment about the 'Marge' for aspirants having done the route now around a dozen times (only one with a partner) is that it is "character building". When rope soloing you end up doing the whole route twice - so you get an 'intimacy' for the dodgy rock & doubtful placements...

- Allow plenty of time.
- Take a helmet (due other parties may be above).
- Bring the sunscreen & a shady hat for under the helmet.
- Be prepared for the hot afternoon sun, as there are few shady spots/trees.
- Bring a lightweight headlamp.
- Bring 2 litres of water (I usually have a Nalgen with weak Gatorade, the other neat).
- Be prepared to 'dither' in locating the start of the climb.
- Get into the habit of efficient change overs at the belays to reduce time.
- Can walk-off at P4 to the right (or as some climbers do 'walk-on') & exit the same way you came in from the Butterbox Canyon exit.

I typically bring a mixed rack of nuts and cams Friends 00 to 1.5, Cams 0.5 to 3 with 8 quickdraws, plus a few long slings - Oh & a single bolt bracket for belay at the top of P8.

Good climbing.