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Mt York Accident 7-Jul-2010 At 9:26:27 AM mikepatt

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On 21/06/2010 yim wrote:
>Hi everyone, I was the guy who had the fall. I don't really think the climb
>was to blame, I'm still relatively inexperienced (around 6 months climbing
>outdoors after a 3 year hiatus) which probably has a lot to do with it,
>but I think a few things contributed to me hitting the ground like I did.
>From the ground, the place where I fell from looks like a reasonably easy
>place to clip, but once I got up there I just couldn't quite get comfortable
>with my hands and kept moving away from the bolt to find a better hold.
>I haven't climbed a route with carrots yet either, so far its been rings
>only. I had a bit of trouble putting the plate on, which made me lose my
>cool a bit. I managed to get the draw on, but by this point I was psyching
>myself out and rushing it. I should probably have taken a moment to get
>my position sorted before I tried to clip at all because I was a bit far
>away from the bolt and having to reach over to it. Anyway I grabbed the
>rope pretty hastily and tried to clip, but my right hand popped off and
>down I went.
>
>4 hrs and 2 helicopters later I was a Westmead ED jacked on morpheine
>with doctors sticking their fingers up my date to see if I could still
>clench.
>
>Anyway it was a bit of a blow to the confidence but I'm thankful I got
>away with minor injuries, I learned a thing or two about my judgement when
>it comes to climbing and I'll be back on the horse in a month or 2.

I took a walk around Mt York on Sunday arvo and had a look at Unethical. As with most of the routes on that wall it's got an interesting start before the first bolt, and the second bolt is only a little higher before a mantle move to a fairly big ledge. From there it's a case of standing up and then clipping the bolt. I have led this climb but can't remember much about it but I am wondering if Yim was actually on Unethical, or the harder grade 18 to the left (Salubrious) which the 2007 guide notes 'has large bolt heads'...