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Ankles busted in the Bluies 22-Apr-2009 At 3:47:19 PM gremlin

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I only use a prussick/autoblock in rare circumstances. But they're good to have in the toolbox of tricks...

If there are no sharp edges i usually just get lowered, alternatively i rig the abseil up as you normally would, then make two figure eights in the rope and clip these to the anchor with lockers, i rap on one strand while the second person belays me on the other. Once down and safe the second guy removes the lockers and figure eights leaving a rope threaded through the anchor ready for a normal rap. Instead of the second using a prussick they get a firemans belay.

The rope is always tied to someone, less chance of it being dropped.
There's no tinkering around rigging up prussicks/autoblocks.
The first person down can make sure the rope dosn't gets snagged or tangled.
Theres the option of going hands free to deal with clusterf---s and other problems.
If the rap ends up in no mans land the first person can sink in a few bolts/pitons, climb, batman, be hauled or prussick back up.

It can't be done in all situations, but when it has, it's saved a lot of time...

... none of this would have helped Jeremy as his circumstances were completely different.