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Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

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Crossloading knots 26-Apr-2012 At 2:03:54 PM Olbert

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On 26/04/2012 Richard Delaney wrote:
>I've just started doing a bunch of test too:
>
>http://youtu.be/9skZ27YQd1g
>
>this is a tug-of-war between a bowline and a fig-8 on a manky, 20-year-old
>pice of 9mm BlueWater II+ static rope that's been through lots of canyons.
>
>Richard

Whats the point?

You test a non-rethreaded bowline against a figure 8 on an old rope. The video shows what the tension at breaking point was, however, this is pretty useless information without more context and analysis.

Where did the rope break?
Did it break because of either of the two knots, or did it break because of some old weakness?
Is this result consistent with expectations? Why/why not?

The other point is, for rock climbing purposes, the breaking strain of a figure 8 against the bowline is pretty useless information even if all the above questions are answered. I think we can all agree that both the bowline and the figure 8 are well strong enough - it is their other characteristics that are of concern to climbers (ease of tying, ease of seeing if it is tied wrong, risk of coming untied unintentionally etc.)

Good that you have got yourself a strain testing device but you should put a bit more effort into testing things that are useful, answering questions people want answered, and making videos that have a bit more useful information in them.