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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!
Topic
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Date |
User
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Warning - possibly the most boring TR ever written |
10-May-2010 At 12:01:25 PM |
cruze
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Message |
Postscript to the most boring TR ever:
Yesterday, Bob Saki and I headed out for a pleasant half day over at the North-West Outcrop. We started on Talmud (18) which I must admit is probably one of the best crack routes I have climbed in a while. It uses everything from fist to finger lock and even has a couple of layback moves thrown in to boot! I thought that the grade was about right and enjoyed the full body workout. I liked the fact that there were no face climbing options at all. I did tape up (which is incredibly rare for me) and was grateful for it.
We next headed over to Grimulace (20) which was equally as good but had a variety of face holds if you wanted to use them. Personally I thought that the combination of crack and slab was pretty straight-forward at the grade and would go so far as to say that Grimulace is considerably easier than Talmud. When I comapre Grimulace to Electric Warrior and Christian Crack I think that it might be a little over-inflated. It is also easier than Integral (19). But then who cares?? They are all awesome!!!
I would seriously recommend to anyone that is looking for primo crack routes that they look no further west until they have done these two routes. Despite their heights of 15 m they are two of the purer crack lines that I have climbed in a while and between the two of them will test your ability to fingerlock, deep hands, shallow hands, fist, layback and smear.
We had a little play up to the second bolt of Pit Simitri (26) which reminded me how out of form my smearing and crimping is - but then again the route is pretty tough so I shouldn't be too disappointed.
We finished on Exam Technique (22) but my ouchy wouchy tippies couldn't hold the crystals below the second bolt so I left that one for another day.
Seriously that crag should have people all over it all weekend. It has some serious quality compared to the rest of the Youies. |
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