Well, on Saturday I just took it easy in the swealtering sun and spent a bit of time just redpointing some old routes that I had some dogs on. On Sunday I tried to onsight a 20 (Gladiator, Morialta, Adelaide) - blitzed what looked like the crux from the bottom, a very steep start into a blank wall then to what looked like a lazy layback crack in a corner - it turned out that the crack was the hardest part of the climb - in a steep corner after clipping a bolt, I pulled what seemed to be the crux move placing a small TCU cam into a horizontal crack, then a .5 camalot above that in a vertical crack along the way, about 1.5 meters to 2 meters above the bolt - I made it to a nice big jug hold for a rest - chilled out for a bit chalked up and started looking around for my last bit of gear (now about 2 meters above the previous cam) - I slid my #1 cam into the rock and reached down to grab the rope when my foot gave way - my whole body following, my #.5 cam pulled out on me (I've fallen many times, never had gear fall out) and, as I felt it go, *gasp!* I freaked like a muffukka - fortunately the small (I think #1) TCU cam held me snug as a bug in a rug. Unfortunately my nerves were totally shot and that's me for a few weeks I think - back to low grades on trad and sport routes until I get some nerves again ...
that was my weekend ... |