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TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA 16-Apr-2018 At 2:25:30 PM bigchris

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On 16-Apr-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 16-Apr-2018 gordoste wrote:
>>Stop being a tool. The ethics are clearly that the FA decides on how
>to
>>protect the route.

And now you can climb it without Valley Giants. Go for it :D

>Yeah, that's all changing due to ocd fuchwits bolting the shit out of
>everything. I don't have a problem with Chris bolting his chimney. I have
>a problem with some of the other stuff he wrote, which suggests mass retrobolting
>is on the cards.

Not once have I suggested retro-bolting a climb. I've spoken a lot about replacing anchors and/or dodgy old bolts. Which I do at my cost (not a big deal) so that people are safe etc. I'm not sure if you've been to Boulder Canyon or Yose or Moab as of late, but the climber have all banded together as a community to replace old shit bolts. Chris Mac is one of the guys who has led this initiative.

As far as i'm aware (and please feel free to correct me if i'm wrong - which I know someone will anyway) replacing dodgy anchors is not retro-bolting. In the case of Country Road, I think that the anchor needs to be changed to some nice modern bolts. The issue is, that there is some old archeological bottle from the 1500's (not actually the 1500s - its probably from the 70's - just incase no-one understands my excellent humour) so i'd feel bad pulling the anchor and putting a new one in because it looks cool and old. The trad anchor in there would mean (and how I was when I did it), half hanging off of the slopey ledge and not being able to provide an appropriate belay as there is a huge chance that the climber falls off of the first move and lands straight on the anchor (it's a pretty out there move).

I'd also like to hear from you in regards to me 'retro-bolting everything in sight' and where i've said that. Perhaps you've gotten confused with my thinking - and just or the record - I don't and won't retro or rebolt anything with out the FA Teams permission.
I do find it appropriate to change an old crap anchor to a new one. I also don't think that anyone is going to complain about that (apart from on Country Road).

Surely the climbing community can surely find an appropriate solution.

Just as a side note - There are bolts all over the top of country road on the block, also on the other side of the gorge in numerous places from slacklines being set up. So while I try and do the right thing and tell people what i'd like to do or ask permission or whatever (for example on The Pinch - my drill went flat so I didn't replace them anyway), i'm the one that faces ridicule (which is no big deal) not the people that like Mike has said, just go and bolting during the night.

Cheers