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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User
TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA 3-Apr-2018 At 9:15:05 AM bigchris
Message
So back at home after a really fun weekend with my climbing buddy, Handsome Chris. I'm BigChris because i'm tall. He's Handsome Chris because he's not conventionally attractive :D :D :D

I gave it a go on Friday, but after an unfortunate harness leg loop snapping incident I had to lower down and make a bogan-harness (mike law style) out of a sling to get out! It was actually pretty scary but no one died so all is good!

We climbed at different spots around Buffalo on Saturday and Sunday, The Cathedral and down at Chalwell Galleries where I have found a new project to throw myself in (Cinderella Crack). Thanks for the heads up on that Mr Law!

Here are some picture of the FFA send of Typhon. The climb itself was all over the place and I was scared out of my mind but managed to keep it together for the send. Coming out of the cave was really fun, and if you're skinnier than me (most climbers) then you may find it easier to get into, but have less to hold onto because you can't jam your leg in under the roof!

The hardest section for me was to go from basically where it gets a little thinner at the top, because I couldn't quite chicken wing it (size 6 for me) and my legs were still in the fatter section, making it difficult to get a decent leg lock off while I had a heel and toe jam. It's slightly overhanging so you just wanna fall out all of the time!

I'm actually going to have to go to the docs and get my right knee and shoulder checked out because i think i've done some damage but all in good fun (pants-pooping fun!).

******************
No Idea on the grade. I just called it 25 on thecrag.com. You can call it what you like, however, until it gets repeated, and someone calls it something else, 25 it is! It's an off width/chimney so it's going to be size dependant.

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/buffalo/the-gorge-south-side/route/1679779854

There is an excellent set of bolts in the top for top roping fun and if you need direct instructions on how to get to them feel free to call me. The easiest way to get there if you know the place, is to find the Caligula top-out, crawl up corner wall behind the tree to the ledge (approx two meters of scramble) and then crawl through the wombat hole with your gear and follow the light of the crack above.

Flame on, Flamers!
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Here is a picture of the approach to get into the top of the cave. We had to push the gear through (or drop it through from the top).

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Here is me sitting in the V-shaped cave at the top. Handsome Chris is positioned with the camera where you crawl through from. I'm facing North (out of the cave) for perspective on how it looks from inside.

20180330 112225

Here I am on the FFA send! Handsome Chris is on the Agrippa Belay ledge. I traversed the slab, crawled into the cave, and climbed out!

20180402 110513

Here is a picture of my next project, Cinderella, located in the Chalwell Galleries. I don't think it has seen a second ascent, and I'll try an do it without the boxing gloves described in the guide!

20180401 102452

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