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Topic Date User

Kim Carrigan BOOK 15-Mar-2017 At 4:22:22 PM widewetandslippery

Message

On 15/03/2017 dalai wrote:
>On 14/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>>...nevermind chains before the slab ... Kim climbed ONTO the slab ...
>
>but didn't clip the chains!
>
>According to Ewbank who created our lovely grading system:
>
>Grading takes the following into consideration. Technical difficulty,
>exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller factors.
>As these are more or less all related to each other, I have rejected the
>idea of 3 or 4 grades, i.e. one for exposure, one for technical difficulty,
>one for protection etc. Instead the climb is given its one general grading,
>and if any of the other factors is outstanding, this is stated verbally
>in the short introduction to that climb
>
>Onto or before the slab is irrelevant. The grade is for the whole climb
>and not just a technical grade for the crux. If he didn't clip the anchor,
>he didn't climb grade 31.
>
>With your logic, I have a number of routes where I peeled above the crux;
>a couple of times staring at the chains just inches from my nose I can
>claim!

I'm with ima, cos I climbed a bunch of v12s and maybe v13, Bullen climbed v15 on his reckoning.