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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Northwest	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

has anyone been intimate with this crack? 26-Nov-2004 At 10:48:37 AM Kanya

Message

I think Kent's well known Melbourne climber may have come to light. You need to give a few hints when
you make a statement like that, Kent. How are we supposed to smirk and giggle when all we get is "well
known Melbourne climber"?

Grading is a subjective exercise so I am aways willing to accept plus or minus a grade. Grading is a
comparative exercise also. A climb graded 21/22 at that mega cliff Scorpion Rocks should be comparable
with similar style, similar grade climbs elsewhere. I will suggest some climbs for comparison, graded 19
and 21.

Black Hill

Barefoot and Pregnant 19
Squeal Like a Pig 21
Maid to Undress in the Wilderness 21
Snakes and Ladders 19

Mt Hope

Alms for the Beggarman 21
Hoddle Street 21
Crimping 21

Let's go further afield.

Mt Buffalo

Glossop Skins (top pitch) 20
Glossop Skins (top pitch) 21
Time Passage 21
Edge of Pleasure (top pitch) 19
The Dreamin (first pitch) 21
Bob Cowan's arete below and to the left looking out from the bottom of Maharajah 21

Mt Arapiles

Auto de Fe 21

And further afield again.

Yosemite

Only joking.

Now, do all those climbs and then grade the slab at Scorpion Rocks. I will stick with 19 + or - 1. I can't
climb 21/22 at present. Indeed I have only ever lead three 22s in 20+ years of climbing and that was
many years ago. Yet I was able to do that slab onsight (memory fades after a few years) a month ago.