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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Beta Wanted:Moonshine Buttress 2-Jan-2007 At 11:08:38 PM JBM

Message

Phil I am heading over this Saturday on the 6th with a view (weather permitting) of catching a bird into
Pioneer on the the afternoon of the 7th. The plan is to base ourselves there until the 14th with a view
to doing Moonshine Buttress first and then whatever else is in condition.

The Beta I have on Moonshine Buttress thus far is:

1) 8-10 Pitches
2) Mostly grade 15 with a crux 17 pitch/move in their somewhere - I suspect in the final pitches of the
head wall
3) For the descent, you rap the route off of fixed gear/slings
4) Leave your packs at the base along with your boots, climb in rock shoes

What I am trying to figure out is what sort of rack. For the most part it looks like pretty easy slab
climbing. Am curious to know if I can get by with mostly wires and a handful of cams.

Here's a link to a photo of the route:

http://www.geocities.com/s1nelson2000/new_zealand_photos.html