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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Northern Group	(General)	Kachoong Cliffs	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Protection on Kachoong 1-Jan-2007 At 11:14:01 AM BigMike

Message

Ethics and style?

I agree with uwhp510...

Ethics is what you do to a route, style is how you climb it.

No one is going to say it was "unethical" of you to have a rest on a piece of pro, or do research on a climb so that you know what you need at the crux, thereby "downgrading" your onsight to a flash...

"Style" is simply the manner in which you climb a route.

It would of course be unethical to claim an onsight if you merely flashed or redpointed ... but that's another story.

Ethics tends to affect everyone's experience of a cliff (bolting, chipping, using chalk in a no-chalk area). Style is about your own approach to your own climbing.

Although it might be considered unethical of me to AID CLIMB KACHOONG on a busy day with loads of punters lining up for it...

Something I nevertheless almost feel inclined to do, as I watch people line up on this forum to tell Organ Pipe how he should or should not approach the climb.

Hey Pipey, I know someone who recently flashed Kachoong after doing some very solid research on the protection etc needed for the climb. It was an intimidating lead at the top of that climber's ability, and they felt very satisified when they succeeded in their chosen approach. And probably would not have tried the route without the prior knowledge.

So all the best in your quest. So long as you have fun, are happy with your efforts, and don't glue a big hold on to the roof, more strength to you!