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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

What are most common grip types at Gramps/Araps? 12-Jul-2017 At 12:46:29 AM widewetandslippery

Message

my 2 cents.

Finger boarding is good. It should be treated as strength training. It should focus primarily on tendon strengthening but muscle development as well. For a weekend warrior they mean the finger, hand, forearm complex get exercised outside of weekends. It also means actual intense finger training happens which depending what you climb at the crag does not always happen and impeeds improvement. As for grips, I think this is a poor term. Most exercises can be done on a simple edge. Training all fingers or including 1 and 2 finger hangs or at least incorporating a few hangs can really help you from injury if confronted, even on thin cracks. other than that the only other thionk would be actually grip strength which a finger board is not the tool.

Other training is good to. But it is generally muscular, finger strength comes slowly and needs to be maintained.

Hows the land of beers, steers and queers these days. Did you meet any of the Bush family?