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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

The Nose - Beta 3-Jun-2014 At 9:41:58 PM gonzo

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hey dood,
how hard can you climb trad? you should probably subtract about 4 grades from that. Much of the nose goes free at 5.10+ and it looks like rad climbing too, but when you have a monster rack, aiders, daises, haul lines, water bottles, cameras & easter bunnies tied to you it's a fair bit harder.

We did the triple direct, which joins the nose at just below the great roof. For prep we did some aiding at Mt keira, then Ozy, South Face Washington Column, Lost Arrow Spire direct (from the bottom) and some flailing on Golden Wall.

If anything, get your systems nailed. It's all about organisation. Keep your belays from being a cluster#@k, know how to haul when the bag is heavier than you, learn how to lower a bag out, learn how to rap with a haul bag - all those munter mule gizmo knots are actually quite useful especially when the bag weights 50kg and you don't have a ledge to put your feet on the manhandle it. Learn how to poo into a plastic bag.

We did it over 5 days with a party of 3, which initially i thought was going to be a bitch as we had two haulbags and had to do counter weight hauls (space hauling or whatever its called), but it was also ace for talking trash on belays and our mate had a penchant for wide awkward climbing which was handy.

Final hot tip: Green Coles reusable shopping bags are ace for organising gear like food, jackets and the like. They seem pretty secure when you clip them in plus its a good way to meet other Aussies.